Restaurant review: Rockpool Dining’s Mexican foray ‘truly disappointing’

The service at this restaurant is three steps north of McDonald’s and the food is fun. But there’s better Mexican in town, and that’s really saying something. Considering the big name behind this restaurant, the experience should be so much better.

El Camino Cantina, Bowen Hills.

Neil Perry’s ponytail has grown very long indeed.

The Rockpool Dining Group now claims 15 restaurant brands, from fast food through to the magical fine-diners, with 60 venues across Australia.

And there is certainly magic in their mix — Rockpool, Spice Temple, Saké, the Cut, The Argyle … wow.

Yet scrolling through the website it all comes across as rather corporate — no mention of Neil Perry until you hit the ‘Leadership Team’ when he pops up as Chief Brand and Culinary Officer.

Nice, perhaps, but he’s now a member of team as opposed to the trailblazing visionary of late last century.

I guess that’s how things go with the mega-successful. Still I expect a lot from the Rockpool Dining Group.

I’ve tasted its wares from dry-aged steaks and brain-melting Sichuanto terrific burgers and it has never disappointed. Until, that is, yesterday, when I wander into El Camino.

The King St venue is the third in the El Camino series following the opening of two Sydney restaurants.

Beer battered barramundi taco, El Camino Cantina, Bowen Hills.

It falls into the casual dining sector so I’m not expecting a hostess, sommelier, pressed table cloths or pristine service.

But I do want to feel some of the magic.

And this is Mexican — a vastly misunderstood and under exploited genre. It should be easy.

The place is geared for a zillion guests — here’s your table, there’s the little pole with your table number attached, come to the bar when you want something, leave your credit card and licence to run a tab. Sure.

What on the menu, I ask, is gluten free? This is important to us because my son is emphatically coeliac. ‘Just the ensalada,’ I’m told by the most engaging of the staff.

What about the guacamole and the ceviche? (That’s my wife asking — so I’m back up to the bar to find out). Sure, says the next guy, they are fine.

We’re lucky this is dinner rather than heart surgery, but still, it worries us.

El Camino Cantina, King Street, Bowen Hills.

We scattergun — ceviche ($22), buffalo wings ($18), guacamole ($14), a mix of tacos and a couple of quesadillas.

The guacamole is fine. No bonus, no demerits, just fine. And the buffalo wings — in a hotly (no pun meant) contested arena, are kind of lousy, saved from complete damnation by a sweet, fruity, mango chilli sauce.

Ceviche is on par for street Mexican (over-cured but tasty), the quesadillas well below par (under-toasted, smallish, boring).

Tacos save the night — rustic, inventive, absolutely delicious but unfortunately tepid. Serve them hot please.

I try a couple of Butcher’s Bride Pale Ales to soften the blow.

They come from the company brewhouse, and they sit right next to the guacamole — merely fine. Margaritas … ditto.

There’s nothing off kilter about El Camino — the service is three steps north of the golden arches and the food is tasty and fun.

But there is better Mexican in town, and that’s quite a statement given Brisbane Mex is almost woeful.

From the Rockpool Dining Group, it’s truly disappointing. It can do so much better.

SCORES OUT OF 10

Food: 6 | Drinks: 5 | Vibe: 6 | Service: 4.5

EL CAMINO CANTINA

45 King St, Bowen Hills

Ph: 3708 3268

Lunch and dinner daily