Brisbane restaurants: Nota review, Paddington

With its handsome looks and clever cooking, this newcomer is the talk of the town

NOTA Restaurant, Paddington. Pictures: supplied

Filling shoes is a contrary business.

Nota, for example, is in the lovely, Paris-meets-Paddington room that once housed the ill-fated Margo and, before that, the iconic Montrachet.

The plus side for Nota is a dining public that’s aware of the space and conditioned to a good experience.

The minus lies with folk wanting Montrachet and finding something else (they should travel to La Cache a Vin at Spring Hill). And that dining public is a fickle bunch that is hard to please.

But there is talk about Nota, and the babbling I’ve heard has all been good.

Nota, Paddington. Picture: supplied

The place has been gloomed to make it more atmospheric than the brightly lit brasserie that was. And for anyone with a fleck of grey in their hair, it makes menu reading tricky.

In a place that uses darkness as part of its charm, it would be a little rude to use the iPhone torch.

But that is my only real whinge: the service is detailed, the drinks list concise and very contemporary, and the food … interesting.

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Savoury churros ($9) — how’s that for interesting? — and what a strangely good idea.

They come with an Ortiz anchovy on top. Even better. There is a scattering of something black and powdered, a pretty, random fall of leaves, and honey hiding somewhere in the mix.

I am a man of coarse taste and want more anchovy, more salt, more punchy flavour, but it’s a clever, happily peculiar dish.

Potentially better, but in the end not quite as good, is a small dish of pork belly (cubed) on brioche squares with jamon ($8).

It’s nicely conceived and tasty enough, just not magical. Kind of like Neville Longbottom from the Harry Potter books.

There’s also caviar on blini ($10) and a tempura fish sandwich ($8) that could be — should be — delicious.

Tempura fish sandwich.

Six larger dishes are offered — three from the ocean, three from the land.

I try Brisbane Valley quail (there seems to be a proper attempt at using local produce where possible) on a pool of polenta, a cob of charred sweet corn, jus, and a sprinkling of leaves ($24).

It’s simple, nicely rendered, earthy.

There’s also sirloin, a rather interesting warm lamb salad, two different fish dishes, and octopus with raspberry, fennel and citrus: again, somewhat sideways.

There are five vegetable dishes — more sides than mains — and only one of them suitable for vegans.

Nota occupies the same Paddington site that used to house Margo and before that Montrachet.

I have a crack at the house mash ($10) because it comes with bone-marrow sauce and I have quite a thing for marrow. It’s what Nastassja Kinski would be if she were a food.

The mash is lamentable — a bit chunky and watery. I like it creamy and rich.

But I get why people are talking about Nota.

There is something compellingly fresh and innovative about the food — clever combinations, lovely presentation, and a definite avoidance of clinging to any particular genre or, for that matter, anything terribly traditional.

And everything else has been well thought through.

It’s a neat, nicely delivered package.

SCORES OUT OF 10

Food: 7.5

Drinks: 7.5

Vibe: 8

Service: 8

NOTA

224 Given Tce, Paddington

Ph: 3217 6116

Chefs: Sebastiaan de Kort, Kevin Docherty

Dinner Thu-Sat; lunch Fri-Sun

Vegetarian options

Eftpos and major credit cards

On and off-street parking