Brisbane Mexican restaurants: Ivory Tusk review, Fortitude Valley

With Palm Springs vibes, cocktails and tunes this newcomer will impress Fortitude Valley revellers. Reviewer Tony Harper isn’t one, but he can still appreciate it’s ‘surprisingly good’ Mexican fare.

If it was 1999 and I walked into Ivory Tusk I’d feel right at home — the day that follows a big night, no sleep, music slightly pimped and a little bit doof-doof … taking the edge off a long session.

But I’m 20 years too late and 20 years too old.

New bar/restaurant Ivory Tusk opened in Fortitude Valley last month.

Despite the fact that it’s lunchtime and the place is empty, I feel a little out of place. Which is not the fault of the staff — the welcome is hearty and we are looked after in a no-frills but want-for-nothing kind of way.

Ivory Tusk is first and foremost a bar.

I’m guessing music is a big part of its makeup — it does live stuff, DJs and not-quite background — and food is the third part of the mix.

But the food is surprisingly good.

Ivory Tusk is foremost a bar, but serves a ‘surprisingly good’ Mexican menu.

It’s Mexican of sorts — perhaps more southern Californian/Baja than true Mexican, but it comes with a lot more intrigue and savvy than just about every other Brisbane Mexican I can think of.

There’s a Netflix series called The Taco Chronicles, and it’s a must-watch for anyone with more than a passing interest in food.

The most captivating episode is surely the fifth which delves into barbacoa — a method of slow-cooking lamb (primarily) in stone wells.

The meat is wrapped in agave leaves, covered with coals and cooked for anything up to 18 hours … like a Mexican version of a hangi.

Both the food and cocktail menu at Ivory Tusk are best for sharing.

The meat is shredded, and popped on a tortilla with salsa and pickles.

Just watching it from the couch (and I’m revisiting the episode as I type) is spellbinding.

So I’m intrigued, but prepared for disappointment, when I see barbacoa ($33) on the menu.

And it is disappointing. But having a Netflix-barbacoa fetish, I’m bound to feel let down by almost anything.

Regardless, do you reckon this lump of nicely tender lamb has been wrapped in agave and roasted overnight in coals? I truly doubt it.

Fish tacos ($15) are rather splendid — fat, battered, deep-fried fillets of something on a bed of rocket and other saladish bits, chipotle mayo on top.

Tony Harper recommends the Baja fish tacos at Ivory Tusk.

The tortillas are flour, not corn, which, if you toss the rocket salad in for support, speaks way more of California than it does of Mexico.

Which is neither good nor bad … merely an observation.

Ditto the bowl of slaw that comes with the chicharrones ($17: pork crackling) and reappears on a plate of chicken mole ($24). Americano!

But the mere fact that chicken mole is on the menu earns a gold star.

It hasn’t been done in the classic mole-poblano (chocolate, spices, pepitas and chilli) style, but it is a pretty interesting rendition, and so, so much more intriguing than a bowl of nachos and a cheesy enchilada washed down by a jug of watered-down sangria.

For me it’s a shame that I need to go to Ivory Tusk to get that food, which I probably won’t do again.

Eye fillet steak skewers at Ivory Tusk.

But for folk going to Ivory Tusk for music and bop-bop-bopping the night away, it’s a godsend.

It’s some of the better Mexican in town and surely the best food in a Brisbane quasi-nightclub.

SCORES OUT OF 10

Food: 7

Drinks: 6

Vibe: 6

Service: 6

IVORY TUSK

633 Ann St, Fortitude Valley

Ph: 3257 4439

Chefs: Graeme McKinnon and Jack Thompson

Lunch, Fri-Sun, Dinner, Wed-Sun