Brisbane French restaurants: La Cache A Vin review, Spring Hill

Brisbane’s godparents of Gallic cuisine prove the flame still burns with their newest venture where something as basic as fries speaks volumes about the kitchen.

The quiz we’d cooked up while waiting for our entrees was trying to name Thierry and Carol Galichet’s restaurants from way back until now.

In reverse order we decided: La Cache a Vin, Montrachet, Medium Rare, a stint in Brunswick St, and I can’t remember which came first out of the Spring Hill church and the semisubterranean place in Albert St that hosted some of the best wine dinners of its era.

There were, no doubt, others.

La Cache a Vin restaurant, Spring Hill.

But whatever the final count and the elusive names, two facts emerge – the Galichets have been successfully peddling their Gallic fare and hospitality for decades, and we the Brisbane diners have been besotted.

I am, and I have been since the ’90s.

With its Franco-Hollywood set up and constant bustle, Montrachet set a new standard for Brisbane bistros.

And its legacy is safe with La Cache a Vin.

Underground, moody and atmospheric, it is the type of place that requires magnetism to fill its seats (because it is hidden away) and instantly addicts the folk who find it.

It is Quentin Tarantino doing a French restaurant.

The Galichets import wines from France, so the list is filled with all sorts of goodies – you can buy 2004 Krug for $450! That’s wild!

The pate en croute at La Cache a Vin, Spring Hill

I could scour some inner-city lists and find it for well over a thousand.

There are spirits from beyond France but everything else from beer to Richebourg is French. As it should be.

La Cache a Vin is unashamedly traditional French so don’t expect burgers or souvlaki, foams or powders.

But having eaten fries two days before in one of our city’s newest bling-bling restaurants and then done the comparison, the La Cache a Vin fries are the best in the business.

And something as basic as fries speaks volumes about the restaurant and its kitchen.

Our meal progressed perfectly.

Eye fillet with fries at La Cache a Vin, Spring Hill

A surprising, rich, fabulous starter of Roquefort brulee ($12) kicked us off, the sort of dish that niggles you for weeks after, it’s that delicious.

And spring rolls, and leek tartlets.

Then a perfect, intense, main of beef bourguignon with kipflers and carrots (beautifully reduced, fatty pools all skimmed in the kitchen); eye fillet with those impeccable fries ($48); duck breast ($39); a plate of niçoise-meets-tonnato and a cracking bouillabaisse ($42).

Out it came, with the sort of timing and service you expect from a restaurateur who has been honing his craft for a few decades.

And that is the point.

Thierry and Carol have been practising their anthem for a long time across a variety of venues. They have it down pat.

In a city with a harem of flash, brightly burning theme restaurants, it’s special to dine somewhere so heartfelt.

SCORES OUT OF 10

Food: 8

Drinks: 8

Vibe: 9

Service: 9

LA CACHE A VIN

215 Wharf St, Spring Hill

Ph: 3924 0501