Is it time to downsize your skincare?

Time to face the music 

How many daily steps have you added to your skincare routine lately? Image: iStock

Leading dermatologists say, well, yes. Here’s how embracing the new era of ‘skinimalism’ could save cash – and equal healthier skin.

Quick pop quiz: how many lotions and potions are currently hiding in your bathroom cabinet? And how many daily steps have you added to your skincare routine lately? Is it three? Possibly four if you include eye cream?

Confession time: mine’s blown out to seven steps – all with the requisite 60 seconds in between each layer of product to let it sink in. That’s probably the only occupational hazard of beauty journalism – it’s hard to unlearn the benefits of power products once you’ve done a deep dive.

Still, I’m a far cry from the 18-or-so steps we’re now seeing as the aspirational norm on social media. Apparently, most beauty influencers in 2024 firmly subscribe to the notion you can’t have too much of a good (and typically outrageously expensive) thing in the quest for what’s now being referred to as ‘baby dolphin’ skin (yes, really). The problem, though, is that layer upon layer of even the most luxurious stuff can be uncomfortable if your face errs on the sensitive side.

In fact, experts say marathon skincare sessions don’t do our complexion any favours. “The downside is that there’s a point of saturation where the products can’t perform their job anymore,” explains dermal therapist Dr Giulia D’Anna, founder of Dermal Distinction in Melbourne. Anything beyond roughly step eight, she says, simply won’t get to where it’s needed in the skin. “The other concern I have is that many skincare ingredients can’t be layered – they just don’t play nice together at all. Some perform the same function and others [are even] counterproductive.”

In fact, experts say marathon skincare sessions don’t do our complexion any favours. Image: iStock

Instead, go for quality over quantity. That’s according to industry-leading New York plastic surgeon, Dr Lara Devgan, whose own premium skincare line is now available in Australia via Mecca. “I think beauty consumers want to avoid what we’re seeing in fast fashion, where you have a closet full of clothes that are really inexpensive, but you only want to wear them once,” she reflects. “People want fewer, better, higher-quality products that deliver efficacy and give you a difference between the before and after.”

Likewise, D’Anna’s best advice, other than asking a dermal expert to make you a streamlined regime, is to invest in products that work. And the good news is that a hefty price tag doesn’t always mean better. “What’s more important is the quality of the ingredients,” she says. “Look at the label. You want your actives listed close to the top of the list. If they’re not… you’re not getting a quality product.” Her other hot tip? Skip vitamin C serum and abrasive exfoliation steps, which she says most of us probably don’t need.

The good news is that a hefty price tag doesn’t always mean better. Image: iStock

D’Anna recommends a simple four-step skincare routine at most, with an extra cleansing step added at night to wash away the day’s dirt, pollution, and makeup. In the morning, she suggests starting with a vitamin B serum for hydration and brightening, before layering on some eye serum, and moisturiser and finishing with sunscreen (a non-negotiable in any AM routine). At the end of the day, her top skincare tip post-cleanse is investing in a quality vitamin A (retinol or bakuchiol) product, then following it with a depigmentation serum (such as kojic acid) to help even skin tone, and a hyaluronic acid serum to amplify hydration. Finally, before hitting the pillow, finish with the fourth and final step: a moisturiser and eye serum. 

So where does this leave all those well-meaning social media stars whose job it is to tout their bathroom cabinet’s wares? Well, turns out some of the savvy ones are tapped into the wisdom of skinimalism, too. Popular Aussie beauty content creator, Ali Whittle, for example, recently streamlined her regime to just one brand, using a plan tailored to her skin’s needs. “I’ve long been a product junkie, but as I get older, I’m less captivated by brands just launching products for launching sake,” she says. “I need research, innovative science, data, and results to really woo me. It can be expensive and exhausting trying to keep up with skincare trends.”

After all, who’s got time to stand around waiting for 18 different layers of face serum to sink in? Luckily, science and common sense both say you really don’t need to.

So where does this leave all those well-meaning social media stars whose job it is to tout their bathroom cabinet’s wares? Image: iStock

Top Multi-taskers for better skin with one swipe

Meet the new hero beauty products experts want to see on your face

To refine:

Bespoke Luminosity Revive and Refine Serum, $149 from bespokeskintechnology.com

Created by a top Aussie dermatologist, this is like nine active serums rolled into one, with high concentrations of niacinamide, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, and more. Consider it your new go-to. 

Bespoke Luminosity Revive and Refine Serum.

Shop here

To repair: 

Bottao Evening Serum, $148 from theskinbar.com.au

Co-launched by skin-focused friends – one a plastic surgeon, the other a cult skincare clinic founder – this serum is packed with key actives (niacinamide, retinol, peptides) that are formulated to enhance each other.

Bottao Evening Serum.

Shop here

To anti-age:

AHC Age Defence Real Eye Cream For Face, $45 from priceline.com.au

Don’t let the price tag fool you. AHC isn’t Korea’s number-one skincare brand for nothing. Think of quality ingredients and plenty of science. This hero dual-use eye cream is the ultimate multi-tasker.

AHC Age Defence Real Eye Cream.

Shop here

To plump:

Q+A Hyaluronic Acid Daily Moisturiser, $17 from priceline.com.au

Light on the wallet with a hero ingredient that’s one of the hardest working in the beauty biz. This ultra-hydrating and plumping cream also calms, firms, and smooths fine lines, plus suits both day and night use.

Q+A Hyaluronic Acid Daily Moisturiser.

Shop here

To firm:

Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment, $210 from revolveclothing.com.au

Sure, there are some research-heavy niche products in this premium range. But this do-it-all ticks every box – from brightening to hydration – in one silky formula.

Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment.

Shop here

Originally published as Is it time to downsize your skincare?