Nine must-do highlights of a trip to the nation’s capital

Its roundabouts and fireworks are as iconically Canberran as its politicians and sub-zero temperatures. But the nation’s capital still has a few tricks up its (hopefully well-insulated) sleeve, from a springtime Vivid-style light spectacular, to a city-fringe vineyard and cellar door, and a fizzing food scene that’s finally getting its due.

The coffee

The Cupping Room cafe in Canberra.

One of the many celebrated cafe offshoots from cult coffee roaster Ona, The Cupping Room caters to coffee obsessives with an extensive drink offering including a rotating “reserve” V60 filter coffee selection and handy grab-and-go takeaway window for coffee on the run. Expect precision cuppas and fun brunch items – house-made granola with cubes of blueberry panna cotta and watermelon gel, or a squishy breakfast bun stacked with bricks of baked rosemary potato, bacon, cheese, pickles and a runny egg. Given the weekend queues, it’s no surprise The Cupping Room won Australia’s best flat white thanks to Wotif voters last year. See thecuppingroom.com.au

The winery

A cellar door tasting just 15 minutes’ drive from the city centre at Mount Majura Vineyard.Credit: Karleen Minney

Fun fact: you can go straight from the energetic city centre to sipping tempranillo against serene vine-braided hills in less than 15-minutes’ drive flat. We’re referring to Mount Majura Vineyard, the Canberra wine district’s most city-centric cellar door – though we should note, there are 140 wineries and more than 35 cellar doors within 30 minutes’ drive. But at Mount Majura, as well as producing a sublime range of single-vineyard riesling and shiraz, its city-fringe locale means a wine country day trip is a convenient Uber ride away. Go for the seated tasting (from $20-$30), featuring a wine flight and small produce platter. See mountmajura.com.au

The quirkiest hotel

The politician “Power Wall” at QT Canberra.

QT’s politician-inspired Canberra outpost may not possess the same glamour and polish of its more youthful sister properties, but with an unbeatable location, and what is surely one of the best hotel design themes of its generation, it ticks all the boxes. Balcony room views are a highlight, and the in-house restaurant Capitol Bar and Grill should be applauded for ditching the buffet for stellar coffee by boutique roaster OTHERSKY and top-notch a la carte breakfasts. See qthotels.com

Floriade, NightFest

Floriade after dark … Vivid-style illuminations enhance the spring bloom displays.

Now in its 37th year, Canberra’s annual celebration of spring – distilled into a multi-coloured wonderland of a million perky blooms – is well known to both locals and visitors. Lesser know is the festival’s after-dark program, NightFest, featuring four nights of the usual horticultural displays bolstered by dazzling Vivid-style illuminations, as part of Floriade’s Dark Side. Adding to the visual theatrics is a program of adults-only cabaret performances. Following the sellout success of last year’s NightFest Spiegeltent, the ticketed Kiss Bang Cabaret promises to “delight and ignite your senses”. See floriadeaustralia.com

The wildest overnight experience

Thick glass separates animals from guests.

Are we in the Australian capital or some far-flung safari lodge? There are few places beyond the Mother Continent that combine this level of luxury with the chance to spend a night with lions, tigers or bears – all of which surely makes Jamala Wildlife Lodge one of the country’s most unusual and iconic stays. Once a wildlife sanctuary and aquarium, since adding ‘luxury retreat’ to its list of titles in 2014, Jamala’s owners, the Tindale family, have been channelling funds raised by the lodge into its breeding programs and conservational endeavours. Stays are all-inclusive and accommodations, which are adjoined to actual animal enclosures, offer an extraordinary front-row seat to everything from big cats to giraffes. See jamalawildlifelodge.com.au

The most scenic market

The Little Burley Market is back.

Join the streams of young families, couples and pooches promenading along this beautiful lakeside stretch each Saturday. The Little Burley Market was relaunched last spring with more than 50 stallholders, old and new, alongside a live entertainment line-up. Browse upcycled homewares, artisan ceramics and jewellery, surrender to gorgeous smells wafting from food vendors or simply soak up the positive weekend vibes as you stroll the serene five-kilometre bridge loop, stopping for coffee at one of a handful of stalls or gallery cafes along the way. Open 9am-2pm. See thelittleburleymarket.com.au

The star restaurant

Duck on the crown with rhubarb and fish-sauce caramel and prawn omelette.Credit: Rohan Thomson

Tucked opposite Legislative Plaza, a generic-looking corporate park in the middle of the city, lies a bright and cheery dining establishment that happens to be one of the most exciting restaurants in Australia, according to The Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide. We’re talking about Such and Such. Helmed by the team behind two-hatted Pilot, it has shaggy cushions, terrazzo floors, retro-style artworks and seriously inventive dishes. You’re onto a winner with the centrepiece roasted duck, served on the crown with slivers of slow-cooked rhubarb and a deeply flavoured fish-sauce caramel, or the moreish gnudi, a decadent ricotta and cauliflower dumpling showered in currants, walnut and parmesan. See andsuchandsuch.com

The bakery to beat

Croissant, fresh from the oven.

Arrive early. This is crucial. Mawson’s Under bakery, the petite counter operation of brothers Lachlan and Matt Cutter, has a fiercely loyal following, and queues for their signature bullar (soft, doughy Swedish-style cinnamon and cardamom buns), can blow out on weekends – even before the first customer places an order. Pro tip: avoid missing out on those glorious buns by pre-ordering online on the Monday prior. See under-bakery.com

The speakeasy

Whisky buffs are well catered for.

Tucked down a passageway in Braddon’s Yamaroshi Building, Volstead Repeal has a back bar of more than 400 whiskies and some serious cocktail talent among its ranks. In short, the moodily lit drinking den is a prime spot for delicious drinks and cosy good times. Not a whisky buff? There’s something to tempt all drinkers.

Try the Gunpowder Gimlet, a blend of Navy-strength gin, spent lime shell cordial and fresh lime, or their take on the Paloma featuring mezcal, house-made grapefruit cordial, soda and lime. See volstead.com.au

One more thing

The award for zippiest wind-in-your-hair transport goes to Canberra’s e-scooters. The city’s shared e-scooter scheme has been operating since 2020 to great success. Visitors can download an app to unlock one of the bright red Neuron or purple Beam e-scooters and explore at their own pace. See rideneuron.com/australia; ridebeam.com/au

The writer travelled with accommodation support by Visit Canberra and as a guest of Mount Majura Vineyard.