Bustling Burwood: Sydney’s other (and possibly better) Chinatown

It was grudging acceptance at first sight when I got off the train at Burwood station in early 2017.

The rent seemed reasonable, the commute manageable, and with a smattering of Chinese takeaway joints and more real estate agents than seemed strictly necessary, it felt like a place we could call home. Or at least, to twist the words of Michael Ironside in Starship Troopers: “You’re it until I’m dead or I find somebody better.”

Seven years later, we’ve bought a place a bit down the road (just out of the suburb, honestly) and had another child. It seems the Burwood area agrees with us.

Come for the neon wonderland, stay for the meat on a stick at Burwood Chinatown.Credit: Wolter Peeters

There’s no denying we’ve both changed. From that first cosy Tuesday afternoon with a few faded signs and offerings of cheap haircuts, what seemed a sleepy suburb has bloomed into a bustling and vibrant place that wakes up as the sun goes down.

The apartment blocks have gone up and the influx of people has brought neon lights, bubble tea and enough noodles to stretch around Australia. The Italian places have been run out of town, but if you’re after Uyghur-style goat, Xi’an fish soup or dumplings swimming in chilli oil, there are options. Not the biggest range of drinking or entertainment venues, but for eating and talking it’s easy to while the evening away.

For all the changes, by day Burwood remains fairly relaxed. Apart from needing to pick your times carefully or face a battle of car park traffic jams at the shopping centres, there is not much stress getting around.

Burwood Park is ground zero for tai chi and dancing troupes, usually comprising women of a certain age twisting in red silk dresses to warbling music. It’s pleasant to walk around and hear the clicks of the ping pong tables under the shade and get away from the noise of the main road. The playground has served as a useful distraction for our rambunctious boys over the years.

Tai chi participants in Burwood Park.Credit: Louise Kennerley

The park’s rotunda was the site of a citizenship ceremony under the blazing sun where the outstanding member of our family was certified as a subject of King Charles III. Burwood has welcomed us to Australia, in more ways than one.

Best cafe? Two Deers upstairs at Westfield, mainly for the fun selection of cakes.

Best restaurant? Downhill on the left from the station, the 1919 Lanzhou Beef Noodle restaurant where they pull the noodles in the window. Not only is it a good show, but noodles don’t come fresher.

Best beach, park or pool? There are no beaches, but within the council area the Enfield Aquatic Centre has been upgraded.

First place you take visitors? Chinatown: come for the neon wonderland, stay for the meat on a stick.

Perfect night out in your suburb? Pretend you’re in Hong Kong at the Kowloon Cafe in Emerald Square, grab a Doraemon-inspired Nutella and banana pancake from Chinatown; walk it off downhill to the Skye Bar and look east to the lights of Sydney at night with a bevvy in hand.

What would make your suburb better? A good live music venue. Or two.

Pretend you’re in Hong Kong at the Kowloon Cafe in Emerald Square.Credit: Christopher Pearce

Best secret spot in your suburb? The playground upstairs at Chinatown is never busy when we’re there. Great for the boys, and a place to sit uninterrupted.

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