This mask makes you look like Hannibal Lecter, but does it make you look younger?

Smooth, flawless and glassy – it’s the holy trinity of skincare. From creams and serums to Gua Sha and fillers, some will try anything in pursuit of a youthful appearance. But one of the most recent skincare crazes has people looking a little more Hannibal Lecter than glazed donut.

Red-and-blue LED light masks have become a staple on TikTok, with content creators wearing the chunky contraptions in bed, on the couch and even one aircraft, with the LED therapy market set to be worth around $1.2 billion globally by 2032.

At-home LED light masks are all over TikTok, but do they actually work?Credit: Compiled by Stephen Kiprillis.

It is impressive for products that have only been on the market for about five years, especially considering professional LED light treatments have long been available at dermatology clinics.

But beyond TikTok influencers, what do the experts think of at-home, red-and-blue light masks? Can they actually improve your skin, and if so, do they live up to more costly professional treatments?

How do they work?

At-home light masks use different wavelengths of light to target specific skin concerns, says Dr Shobhan Manoharan, a dermatologist and laser specialist at Dermatology Clinics Australia. The skin absorbs the light energy, triggering cellular changes.

“Red light, typically around 630 to 660 nanometres, penetrates the skin more deeply, stimulating collagen production and reducing inflammation,” he says. “Blue light, around 415 nanometres, works at a shallower level and is effective in destroying the acne-causing bacteria, Cutibacterium acnes.”

So, those hoping to target fine lines, wrinkles, rosacea and pigmentation would use a red light mask. Those targeting breakouts and acne would opt for a blue light mask. Manoharan says there are also devices that incorporate a combination of lights, including red, blue, yellow and near-infrared, which can tackle a range of skin concerns at once.

Are they effective?

The effectiveness of these masks is largely dependent on how you use them, says Kammi Brown, director and senior therapist at Skin by Kame.

“To have a therapeutic effect, it must be used three or more times per week for 10 minutes minimum. Some conditions will require longer,” she says.

Brown points to a few clinical studies on the effectiveness of LED light therapy; however, most existing research acknowledges the need for further trials to determine the full extent of its efficacy. Other studies focus purely on medical-grade devices rather than less-powerful at-home masks.

Brown says the right skincare is generally more important than the use of an at-home light mask. This is particularly the case for severe acne, Manoharan notes, which is often best targeted with a range of treatments like LED masks, skincare, prescription medications and peels or lasers.

Owner of Skindepth Dermatology Dr Alice Rudd says at-home masks can’t offer the same results as professional treatments, which often have much higher energy outputs. At-home results will therefore appear more subtle, even after prolonged use.

“While at-home devices are convenient, treatments in specialist skin clinics provide more significant outcomes,” she says. “The at-home devices need to be used very regularly – a couple of times a week.”

LED light therapy is said to help with conditions such as acne, eczema, sun damage and pigmentation.Credit: NYT

Further, at-home masks may lose more power over time compared with clinic masks, which are regularly serviced.

Better than botox?

Home-use masks can work in tandem with more invasive procedures like botox and fillers, but they don’t operate the same way.

“Botox rapidly improves dynamic wrinkles by relaxing muscles, whereas LED more conservatively improves fine lines and wrinkles over time,” Manoharan says.

He says fillers restore lost volume, which LED therapy cannot do.

“For someone looking for milder, long-term skin improvements, LED masks are a great preventative tool. However, for more dramatic results, professional treatments are still the gold standard.”

How safe are they?

Generally, LED therapy is safe, but it must be used correctly. Rudd suggests protecting your eyes, either by wearing goggles or masks with in-built eye protection. Overusing an LED light mask can also lead to dryness and irritation.

“People with light sensitivity, certain skin conditions, or photosensitivity should consult a dermatologist before use,” she says.

Are they worth the money?

At-home LED masks retail anywhere between $100 and $1000. Brown says she would usually only recommend home LED for virtual clients who don’t live close enough to a clinic for regular treatment.

“Going with a reputable brand that’s sold alongside a cosmedical or cosmeceutical skincare line is the safest option,” she says, adding that pricey masks from beauty chains aren’t usually powerful enough to be worthwhile.

Manoharan agrees, noting buyers should choose only masks that are approved by the Therapeutic Goods Administration. Look for products within the effective light wavelength range, 630–660 nanometres for red and 415 nanometres for blue.

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