Would the Good Food team drive more than two hours just for the promise of a great dish? You bet we would. Yes, our regions are home to Good Food Guide-hatted restaurants such as Brae and Provenance in Victoria, and Pipit and Bar Heather in NSW, some of the finest, most exciting eating you can do in this country. But our small towns are also filled with drool-worthy bakeries, cafes, pizzerias, delis and, increasingly, wine bars. Fill the tank with fuel and the Thermos with tea, it is to these gems we are heading.

Cavatelli with goat ragu at Hey Rosey, Orange

If intimate wine bar Hey Rosey was in my local neighbourhood, I would be drinking martinis at its counter anywhere between once a week and every day. As it is, however, I have to drive more than three hours west of Sydney for Hugh Piper’s anchovy toasts, beef tartare and house-made pasta. The former Dear Sainte Eloise chef sends out a particularly long-flavoured cavatelli with goat and tomato ragu, lifted by curry leaves and the warm crunch of pangrattato. It’s exactly what you want to eat on a cool Orange night, surrounded by mid-century furniture while owner Leigh Oliver spins records and pours local shiraz.
301 Summer Street, Orange, NSW, heyrosey.com.au

While you are there

Smart-casual Schoolhouse Restaurant at Union Bank in Orange serves sharp cocktails and a modern European menu across lunch and dinner six days a week, for all those times when you want nothing more than a stolen afternoon of rabbit rillettes, gamay, and steak frites with bagna cauda.

Callan Boys

Mozzarella en carrozza at Mortadeli, Torquay

Chef Glenn Laurie learnt the art of pasta-making at the River Cafe in London, the same restaurant that gave a young Jamie Oliver his big break. So I’m almost ashamed to say that while I’d happily stick a fork into Laurie’s rigati alla carbonara any day of the week, it’s the fried mozzarella and anchovy sandwich that has me plotting a return visit to this Torquay pasta bar and deli. It’s the stuff of cheese dreams.
Shop 8, 4-6 Gilbert Street, Torquay, Victoria, mortadeli.com.au

While you are there

Half an hour’s drive down the road at Airey Inlet is the French wine bar and deli the locals call Ooh La La. By day, Le Comptoir serves excellent coffee, croques madames topped with runny-yolked fried eggs, and amply stuffed baguettes. After sundown, it’s cheese platters, a stonking cassoulet and French wine. Ooh la la.

Roslyn Grundy

Mushroom pizza at Coffin Sally, Port Fairy

Apparently, mushroom sales are down in Victoria, thanks to a case of alleged mushroom poisoning that has dominated headlines. Do your bit for Victorian fungi farmers by ordering the most delicious thing on the menu at the cosy Coffin Sally pizzeria in this tiny seaside town. It’s a white pizza with juicy mushrooms perfumed by thyme and taleggio. When the south winds howl, which they often do, grab seats at the bar next to the open fire, and sip a Cynar as you wait.
33 Sackville Street, Port Fairy, Vic, coffinsally.com.au

While you are there

Go to the Merrijig Inn, sit in the garden wrapped in a crocheted blanket and watch the sunset with a local gin in hand. After a few false starts on the food front, also check out the schmickly reno-ed Oak & Anchor pub, which has just launched a new restaurant, Sidro.

Ardyn Bernoth

Käsekrainer (cheese kranskies with the trimmings) at Das Kaffeehaus, Castlemaine
A glamorous, buzzing Viennese-style coffeehouse cafe in an old mill on the outskirts of Castlemaine, say what now? But somehow, Das Kaffeehaus seems completely at home in its eclectic surrounds. And it feels completely natural (and great) to be eating lightly charred, melted-cheddar spurting kranskies with a warm Kaiser roll, sauerkraut and two types of mustard ($16.50) under a huge sparkling chandelier at 11am in the morning. With a Cointreau-laced hot chocolate topped with whipped cream on the side, of course. It had me wishfully googling “Castlemaine property for sale” between bites.
9 Walker Street, Castlemaine, Vic, coffeebasics.com

While you are there
Wander around the Mill (where Kaffeehaus is located) for more irresistible artisan food, wine and shopping, then stop off at Johnny Baker for a deep-filled, perfectly made pie on your way home. Beef and burgundy or chicken and leek, that is the question. The answer? Both.

Andrea McGinniss

Cataplana at The Birdhouse, Apollo Bay

Paella used to be the signature dish at this treetop-level restaurant with water views. But when owner-chef Gavan Rix introduced cataplana, it took off. You’ll see why once you try the Portuguese seafood stew, which is named after the clam-shaped copper vessel used to cook it. Here, local fish and calamari, along with a hefty crab claw, prawns, mussels, chunks of chorizo and new potatoes all bob about in a paprika-scented broth. Flavour for days.
Level 2, 125 Great Ocean Road, Apollo Bay, Vic, birdhouseapollobay.com.au

While you are there

Buy the ingredients for DIY cataplana from the harbourside Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-Op, which has been selling locally caught seafood for the past 75 years.

Roslyn Grundy

Charcoal chicken at Birds of Paradise Rotisserie, Brunswick Heads
While we wait for the grand reopening of Fleet (date still to be confirmed), the owners of the two-hatted restaurant, Astrid McCormack and Josh Lewis, are keeping Northern Rivers’ locals well-fed with rotisserie chicken, smart salads and banana ice-cream. The chooks are truly beautiful birds, with taut golden-brown skin and flesh juicy enough to compete with any French bistro (see also, the insanely buttery mash with chicken-bone gravy). A few stools in the shop give you the option to eat in, but there’s really nothing better than taking your lunch down to Brunswick River and scoffing too many hot chips.
19 Booyun Street Brunswick Heads, NSW boprotisserie.com.au

While you are there
Head to the beach for a swim (wait at least an hour post-chook), dry off, then sidle into the Fleet team’s relaxed taqueria, La Casita, for margaritas and spice-driven snacks. I think about the wood-grilled jalapeno stuffed with queso and fresh pork sausage here a lot.

Callan Boys

Vanilla slice at RedBeard Bakery, Trentham

The term “snot block” is inconsiderate of the cook at the best of times, but the signature at this homey bakery absolutely defies such cruel characterisation. It’s no block, for starters – more of a fat, wobbly tower – and the featherlight, vanilla-speckled, yolk-tinged custard cream is unlike any snot you’ve ever known. It’s near-impossible to bite into; instead, use the top layer of crackly pastry to scoop up the pillowy filling. Not one to tackle on the drive home.
38A High Street, Trentham, Vic, redbeardbakery.com.au

While you are there

Learn to cook dumplings, mud crab and more at star chef Tony Tan’s Cooking School just up the road (be sure to book ahead).

Ellen Fraser

Croissant at Burnt Honey, Long Jetty

While you’re likely to buy more than one thing at this quaint takeaway shop and pantry – after all, it’s one of the best regional bakeries in NSW (with another outlet in Copacabana) – their croissants are guaranteed to deliver the kind of miles-per-bite quality you want from a road trip. They’re made with Pepe Saya butter, organic flours and top local eggs, and are buttery, light and crisp. If the moussaka croissant is available, get one of those, too.
298 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty, NSW, burnthoneybakery.com.au

While you are there

The bakery’s on a cute strip with other excellent shops, including a couple of vintage spots (my fave is Tiki La La), banh mi shop Keep Rollin, and an excellent bottle-o, Upstairs Wines.

Sarah Norris

Bacon and egg roll, The Clunes Store & Cellars, Clunes

There is a wonderful synergy between old and new at this foodie roadstop on the Byron to Lismore road, with its cafe, wine cellar, flower shop and produce store. A sign that reads “sourcing locally since 1890” sits happily next to another sign for “Shoza Gyoza, 7 for $10″ above a basket of local pineapples and bunches of sunflowers. The open-air cafe’s bacon and egg roll is a beauty. The bread has heft, the bacon has flavour, and the coffee, via Allpress, is worth a detour on its own. Oh, and it’s also a post office, if you need to send a letter.
33 Main Street, Clunes, NSW, clunesstore.com.au

While you are there

Pick up some holiday reading at Uncle Peter’s (secondhand) Books next door, have an ale in the beer garden at the Eltham Hotel, and book a trestle table at Frida’s Field eco-farm for chef Alastair Waddell’s signature long lunch, either omnivore and vegetarian.

Jill Dupleix

Mince beef pie at Mountain High Pies, Wentworth Falls

At this rustic roadhouse on the Great Western Highway, you will find some of the best pies in the state. Real old-school eat-in-the-hand, crusty-bottomed oval pies, they come in up to 30 varieties, and are the cause of much dithering. Beef and red chilli bean? Chickpea and curry vegetables? The classic mince beef pie is chockers from top to bottom with mince and gravy that’s not too runny, not too chunky, but juuuuust right. With sauce, of course.
293 Great Western Highway, Wentworth Falls, NSW, mountainhighpies.com.au

While you are there

Make another detour off the highway for the sublime organic escargot scrolls and yuzu curd sourdough doughnuts at the Black Cockatoo Bakery in Katoomba or Lawson – and take them to the Campbell Rhododendron Gardens at Blackheath for a picnic among the blooms. Do not, repeat, do not, eat them on the way there.

Terry Durack

Thali with hoppers at Many Little, Red Hill South

Some of the most memorable Sri Lankan food I’ve had in Australia was – stay with me – in the middle of Victoria’s wine country. At a wine bar, no less. We have the two P words of 2020 (pivot and pandemic) to thank for this happy accident. Chef Gayan Pieris began putting the food of his heritage into takeaway containers at Many Little, owned by Polperro. But now, on the plate, he truly spreads his wings whether with a Mooloolaba swordfish electrified by curry leaves and lime or a savoury squid-ink version of a sweet called koki. The pinnacle of his set menus is a generous gold platter of intensely spiced curries with sambols, pickles, rice and, yes, hoppers. A true standout in a crowded field of winery dining.
2-5, 159 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South, Vic, manylittle.com.au

While you’re there

If it’s a clear day, head up to Arthurs Seat to see Melbourne and the Bay spread out like a picnic blanket beneath you. Pt Leo Estate‘s exceptional sculpture park is less than 10 minutes’ drive away. Or take your pick of the wineries and beach walks that fan out in every direction.

Emma Breheny

Sticky date bun at Millers’ Local Bakehouse, Wollongong

This charming hole-in-the-wall bakery can attract long lines when it opens on Friday and Saturday mornings, but rest assured, the sticky date (and cinnamon) buns are worth it. Fluffy, warm and just sweet enough, they’re slathered with cream cheese frosting and dripping with a sticky, house-made butterscotch sauce. They’re takeaway only, so grab a few extra napkins and head down to the beach for the ultimate brekkie-with-a-view.
Shop 3, 363 Crown Street, Wollongong, NSW, millerslocalbakehouse.com

While you are there

If you’re an early bird, work up an appetite first with the North Wollongong Parkrun (surely one of the prettiest routes in NSW). Otherwise, head a little further south to The Servo in Port Kembla, where a community of artists and musicians holds events every weekend.

Bianca Hrovat