Sometimes I wonder how a place like this comes to exist. Do they just drop a bunch of terms like "wine on tap", "barrel-aged cocktails", "taxidermy", "all our meals are designed to share" and "perky Americans" into a floppy felt hat and pull them out one at a time until they have a restaurant? Also, is this how they decided on calling Jared Ingersoll their "brand development chef"?

Inquiring minds need to know, Seagrass Boutique Hospitality Group.

These guys have taken over the old Chinta Ria site. They replaced the giant Buddha with fake deer heads, a wall of pillar candles ("Are we allowed to light them with the complimentary matches?" my dining pal wonders) and a vortex of low-hanging foliage in the middle of the room. Thick rope adorns the backs of some of the larger booths and there's bench seating for snacking and quaffing. It looks a little bit like a giant cubby-house for options traders.

The menu is an updated, meat-centric version of what Cockle Bay restaurants are generally known for: broad scope. Big ups for serving a flat iron steak – the cool American cut you might recognise as oyster blade – with a generous slathering of garlic butter. Though, not to get all Captain Pernickety here, if you specify on a menu that said steak will be served medium, you really want to make sure you nail that brief, rather than serving it in various hues of the meat rainbow.

Those aged cocktails? They're perfectly fine. Though I'd question the logic behind mixing barrel-aged and fresh negronis to make something they describe as "a balanced drink with layers of complexity". It's a little like putting still and sparkling San Pellegrino together and claiming you've invented a new style of water.   

And while we're pretty spoiled in Sydney when it comes to a straight cheeseburger – Mary's, the Fish Shop and the Burger Project are just a handful that smash it out of the ballpark – I kind of like the fact they've gone all normavore here, serving theirs classic Aussie style. That translates as a thick patty covered in melted cheese, lettuce and tomato on a stock-standard roll. For a lot of people, this will probably hit the right chords – it's not greasy and there's plenty of it.

But really, it's all about the specific sandwich section. And this, friends, is where you'll find the goods. Go the juicy chopped pork with plenty of crackling on a long, golden French-style baguette lifted with pickled cabbage. It's definitely a complete lunch once you factor in the accompanying chunky fries.  

So. This place is unlikely to change your life – it's definitely more of a walk-don't-run situation – but what they are doing is bringing a new flavour to Cockle Bay Wharf. And that's a Hunter worth collecting.

THE LOW-DOWN
Pro tip Haven't made a lunch reservation? Rock up on the dot of noon or risk missing out.
Try this Coal-roasted corn slathered with honey and butter.
Like this? Check out Mr Crackles on Oxford Street for the late-night roast roll of your dreams; 155 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, 02 8068 2832