When a small, family-run wine producer in Canberra took out the prestigious Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy at today’s Melbourne Royal Wine Awards, it instantly became the most wanted wine in Australia.

Even the chair of judges, Melanie Chester, was surprised by the result.

“I’d never heard of the wine brand before,” Chester said. “Then you google them [after the judging process] and go, ‘What an amazing story.’ They’re a second-generation, humble family set-up in the ACT, and the wine is absolutely magnificent.”

The honour went to the Four Winds Vineyard 2023 shiraz, produced north of Canberra by vignerons Sarah and John Collingwood.

The wine won multiple major trophies at the presentation lunch held at Melbourne Showgrounds, including the Trevor Mast Trophy for Best Shiraz, the Douglas Seabrook Trophy for Best Single Vineyard Wine, and the Category Trophy for Best NSW/ACT Shiraz.

“It’s the absolute dream outcome when a ‘discovery wine’ wins the Jimmy Watson,” Chester said. “You’re especially stoked when it’s something you’ve never heard of before. It’s a beautiful wine, and it blew me away; blue-fruited with incredible gravel-like tannin and in terms of brightness, it’s in a beautiful space. It’s well-grown rather than just well-made.”

The Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy for Best Young Red is a big deal. The accolade for the best one- or two-year-old dry red wine is arguably the most coveted award in the nation.

Past winners include Tasmania’s Lowestoft and Home Hill, South Australia’s Hentley Farm and Bleasdale Vineyards, Victoria’s Fallen Giants, Yabby Lake and Best’s Great Western, and Western Australia’s Xanadu and Deep Woods Estate.

The Melbourne Royal Wine Awards, established in 1883, attracts about 2500 entries annually from more than 400 wineries nationally. Judges include leading Australian winemakers, wine journalists, wine buyers, distributors and fine wine retailers.

Chester, who is head of winemaking and vineyards at Yarra Valley’s Giant Steps, was delighted to see unfamiliar brand names among the top picks.

“My favourite thing about the results this year is that while the classics that we know and love like Tolpuddle, Xanadu and Home Hill continue to make great wine, there are also new discovery wines, varieties, regions and producers in the mix like Four Winds, Tripe Iscariot and Wines of Merritt.”

The Premiers’ Trophy for the best-performing Victorian wine went to Oakridge, which won Best Victorian Chardonnay for the 2022 Oakridge 864 Henk Aqueduct Chardonnay.

“It’s chardonnay with meat on its bones and power, not just acidity,” Chester said.

This year marks the end of Chester’s three-year tenure as chair of judges and 12-year involvement with the wine show.

“I’m 35 years old and started as a steward,” she said. “For a third of my life I’ve been turning up to the Melbourne Showgrounds in the second week of October to judge the wine show. It’s one of the best wine shows in Australia, and I’m very happy for all the exhibitors who made really tasty wine, particularly the small producers and edgier producers who won trophies this year.”

Five must-try Australian wines right now

Four Winds Vineyard 2023 shiraz, ACT, $79

Take a bow. This gorgeous little family puts a well-deserved spotlight on Murrumbateman. It’s a shot in the arm for beautifully grown and made Shiraz. Act fast, with a Jimmy Watson under its belt, it’ll get snapped up by collectors fast. fourwindsvineyard.com.au

Glenlofty Estate 2023 estate reserve marsanne roussanne, Pyrenees, Vic, $40

A beautiful, fresh white blend. Think white pear-meets lemon drop with a touch of delightful salinity that makes the mouth water and the brain beg for food. A dinner party banger that won’t break the bank. glenloftywines.com.au

Tripe Iscariot Kroos, 2023 chenin blanc, Margaret River, WA, $42

A killer wine. Numerous chenin blancs were entered in the Melbourne Royal Wine Awards this year, and this crunchy, textural beauty spin bowled them all. Made by Margaret River-based, South Africa-born winemaker Remi Guise – a small producer to watch. tripeiscariot.com

Wines of Merritt 2023 Wilyabrup cabernet franc, Margaret River, WA, $45

Pause a moment and breathe deep. This perfumed stunner is uber aromatic, pretty and simultaneously hedonistic. Respect to small batch, low intervention producer Nick Merritt for raising the cab franc bar high. Outstanding. winesofmerritt.com.au

Kirrihill Wines Regional Series Clare, 2023, Clare Valley, SA, $19
So affordable it’s almost criminal. This multi-award-winning Rizza screams value. It’s a bright, head-snapping addition to the dinner table during summer, especially if seafood is on the menu. kirrihill.com.au