In Myanmar, empty 20-lane freeways dissect the ghostly modern capital of Naypyidaw. Police officers in immaculate uniforms stand at attention at manicured garden roundabouts to direct non-existent traffic, backed by women sweeping the streets with straw brooms.

The unofficial explanation for the width of the roads was the military’s desire to ensure they could be used as airport runways should the need to flee ever arise. Another perverted idea of self-protection – as well as grandiosity – was one more reason for the generals’ decision in 2005 to plonk down a gleaming new capital in the middle of the country, well away from the old capital of Yangon near the coast.