Jean-Michel is making me wait. After a leisurely lunch of sea bream ceviche, fried calamari, lobster risotto and a small glass of tiramisu, all washed down with a delicate rose, I’m ready to refresh myself with a swim in the pretty bay where our boat, Satori, has anchored. Jean-Michel is going to join me as soon as he has put on his swimmers, which he’d taken off after our morning dip.

I give him another five minutes before the lure of the translucent blue-green water is too strong and I plunge in. Although it’s mid-October, the water is still surprisingly warm. I’m floating on my back when Jean-Michel swims over. Turns out his bathers weren’t where he left them; the boat’s staff had already taken them away and dried them.