Opening night at the Vienna Staatsoper and my eyes don’t know where to look first: at the chandeliers glittering in the shiny marble foyers, the tiers of red and gold private boxes inside, or the great and good of Viennese society swirling around.

Blond Teutons in tails hold doors open for lovely ladies to sweep through. One neatly moustachioed fellow, female partner in tow, poses on the red-carpeted staircase in an evening gown and silver purse.