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Falling under the spell of Alexandria

Falling under the spell of Alexandria

With its ancient history and rowdy charms, it’s no wonder this Mediterranean jewel has entranced visitors from Marc Antony to Napoleon and Lawrence Durrell.

Alexandria is an intoxicating hotchpotch of history and modernity in a magnificent location. iStock

'There are only two rules,” the renowned Welsh historian Jan Morris wrote about Egypt’s great second city. “One is E.M. Forster’s guide … the best way to know Alexandria is to wander aimlessly. The second is from the Psalms; grin like a dog and run about through the city.”

Alexandria is a city for flâneurs, a sensual tangle of history and culture best navigated without a plan. Walking around the city, you’re aware you’re stepping on civilisations as layered as the sweet feteer pastry sold in the street markets.

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Lee TullochTravel columnistLee Tulloch is the founding editor of Harper’s Bazaar Australia. Lee lived in New York and Paris for many years before returning to Sydney, but travels frequently to satisfy an inherent restlessness and unquenchable curiosity about the world.

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Original URL: https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury/travel/falling-under-the-spell-of-alexandria-20191114-p53aru