'There are only two rules,” the renowned Welsh historian Jan Morris wrote about Egypt’s great second city. “One is E.M. Forster’s guide … the best way to know Alexandria is to wander aimlessly. The second is from the Psalms; grin like a dog and run about through the city.”
Alexandria is a city for flâneurs, a sensual tangle of history and culture best navigated without a plan. Walking around the city, you’re aware you’re stepping on civilisations as layered as the sweet feteer pastry sold in the street markets.