It’s been more than a decade since we last visited Kyoto. Back then we were in full-on family holiday mode, racing with our young son from one stunning temple to the next, seeking out origami workshops, even taking a jaunt to a quirky ninja museum.

Now we’re back in Japan’s old capital, this time on our own terms. It’s early autumn, the maples are just starting to turn, and the plan is to avoid the throng and venture further afield into the lush, green hills around Kyoto for a few days of healthy hiking before a two-night stay at the coolest new hotel in town.