At day’s end on the north-east edge of Crete, the sun slips fast behind the escarpment, but dusk seems to last forever. And no matter where you are at Phāea Blue Palace, you’re immersed in its blues, pinks and purples. I soak it in from my suite’s pool area, which overlooks, well, everything. The view out over the gulf and escarpment is interrupted only by the tapered tip of a cypress tree, planted on the resort’s steep slope down to the Aegean Sea.