The stars are just starting to fade from the sky when I pad out onto the deck, a kettle of hot water in one hand, paper bag of Chinese red tea in the other.

Lighting an incense stick, I close my eyes and take three deep breaths, then place a few dried leaves in a ceramic bowl and pour steaming water over them. I tip the earthy brew into my mouth, giving thanks to the rain, the sun and the wind that helped the camellia sinensis tea plants I’m drinking
to grow – and also to the farmers who tended and harvested them.