Last year, major wine company Australian Vintage released a new brand. Billed as “Australia’s first AI-curated, human-crafted wine”, CTZN boasted “the precision of artificial intelligence [blended] with the artistry of human craftsmanship ... redefining the boundaries of tradition and innovation”.

The CTZN range comprises two reds with curiously late-1990s sci-fi labels. One, a blend of shiraz, cabernet and merlot called Quantum Quintessence, is disappointingly conventional – it tastes like a bunch of other medium-bodied shiraz blends out there. The other, a more unusual blend of pinot noir, grenache and tempranillo called Ethereal Pulse, is a more interesting drink: spicy and very modern.