I’m exhausted and energised all at the same time. Having finished reading Pascaline Lepeltier’s new book. One Thousand Vines: A New Way to Understand Wine, I’m bursting with fresh insights and a deeper understanding of a topic I thought I knew very well.

My office shelves are laden with books on wine of all kinds, from viticulture manuals and regional guides to winery histories and introductions to tasting. I’ve spent the past 30 years writing about wine, visiting vineyards, talking and tasting and drinking with winemakers. Yet One Thousand Vines took me on a journey through the familiar landscape of wine and showed me things I’ve never seen before – or, rather, showed me a new way to look at and think about so many aspects of wine.