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Champion or exploiter of women? Helmut Newton’s subjects tell all

Champion or exploiter of women? Helmut Newton’s subjects tell all

The German photographer portrayed females like never before. A new documentary turns the lens around.

“Arena, Miami” from 1978, by Helmut Newton. The famous fashion photographer celebrated the beauty and strength of the female form. Courtesy Helmut Newton Foundation

Lauren SamsFashion editor

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Helmut Newton had a saying: “Dienst ist Dienst und Schnaps ist Schnaps.” The German photographer, who emigrated to Australia after World War II, meant this: You should not mix work with pleasure. It’s a curious idiom for an auteur whose work is so deeply rooted in the idea of pleasure itself: in the beauty of the female body, in the celebration of sex, in the freedom of movement and the sheer joy and oddity of creativity itself.

But according to film director Gero von Boehm, it’s a motto that made Newton the success he was. With his ability to separate his work from his personal life, he could see clearly the wonder and depth of his own inventiveness, and was able to cajole subjects – everyone from Isabella Rossellini to Grace Jones – into enacting this into imagery.

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Lauren Sams
Lauren SamsFashion editorLauren Sams is the fashion editor, based in Sydney. She writes about lifestyle including the arts, entertainment, fashion and travel. Lauren has worked as a features editor and fashion journalist for ELLE, marie claire and more. Email Lauren at lauren.sams@afr.com

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Original URL: https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury/fashion-and-style/champion-or-exploiter-of-women-helmut-newton-s-subjects-tell-all-20210719-p58azp