What it’s really like to surf the world’s biggest, deadly waves
Big-wave surfers have a propensity to shake off the near disasters at Nazare – they have to, if they want to get back in the water.
One minute, Andrew Cotton is reclining in the December sunshine, the next, fighting for his life, a lone black blob teetering in Nazare’s death zone.
Whitewash surrounds him and for two and a half minutes – a time frame that feels infinitely longer for his girlfriend Justine White, friends and teammates watching on the clifftop above – his life hangs in the balance.
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