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What it’s really like to surf the world’s biggest, deadly waves

What it’s really like to surf the world’s biggest, deadly waves

Big-wave surfers have a propensity to shake off the near disasters at Nazare – they have to, if they want to get back in the water.

Matt Majendie
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One minute, Andrew Cotton is reclining in the December sunshine, the next, fighting for his life, a lone black blob teetering in Nazare’s death zone.

Whitewash surrounds him and for two and a half minutes – a time frame that feels infinitely longer for his girlfriend Justine White, friends and teammates watching on the clifftop above – his life hangs in the balance.

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Original URL: https://www.afr.com/companies/sport/life-and-death-what-it-s-really-like-to-surf-world-s-biggest-waves-20230703-p5dle0