At the beginning of 2018 my local supermarket in south London had a couple of shelves of vegetarian and vegan food tucked away in the aisle with hummus, pizzas and quiches. Blink and you'd miss it. Then, over the past 12 months, something happened.

First a new section popped up near the cheese and cold meats aisle, offering vegan alternatives for your sandwich. Then some "cauliflower steaks" and "pulled jackfruit" turned up in the fresh veg corner. Over in the UHT milk section, almond drink and its non-dairy relatives colonised an entire zone. And suddenly there was half an aisle of vegan ready-meals. By the year's end, I was pushing my trolley past a full-blown vegan and vegetarian section, with every wish and whim catered for.