Margaret River’s Gourmet Escape a delicious taste of the best the region has to offer

THE Margaret River Gourmet Festival is a perfect opportunity for visitors to explore the spectacular biodiversity and geology that the region offers, writes Simon Wilkinson.

Supplied Travel Pics for Gourmet Escape Margaret River story by Simon Wilkinson

VANYA Cullen strides between the rows of vines in one of the most storied patches of dirt in Australian wine. She bends down, finds a dark, sharp-edged stone among the drying weeds and holds it between her fingers.

It’s a piece of gravel, nothing more, but as she goes on to explain this ironstone and the other ancient rocks that form the base layer of this land are critical to the quality of her acclaimed cabernet and chardonnay.

A geology lesson is never too far away during a visit to Margaret River. While the region is rightly proud of its man-made enterprises, particularly in wine and food, the natural wonder of the place is ever-present.

Towns, farms and vineyards still appear as small patches carved from vast expanses of eucalypt forest. Gangs of kangaroos graze nonchalantly in the golden paddocks they clearly think of as their turf. Luxe resorts squat low in the sand hills sheltering from the surf that pounds pristine beaches.

The coast is the best place to get your head around what’s beneath your feet in this corner of Australia that, despite its wild appearance, is less than three hours drive from Perth.

Here the limestone mantle that covers the ancient rock base is exposed in the formations that rise from the water’s edge.

Take a flight with Wild Blue Helicopters and see what the relentless action of time and tide can do. Swoop gull-like over empty beaches and clifftops before coming to The Canal, a channel through the rock-face that looks as if it must have taken men and machines many years to excavate. The truth is no less remarkable: a chasm formed naturally by the sea exploiting a small flaw in the malleable rock face.

At ground level, the sense of wonder heightens during a walk led by Gene Hardy, whose company Cape to Cape Explorer Tours runs treks on a 135km trail regarded as one of the country’s best.

The starting point is the Contos Cliffs where a quirk of the terrain means the wind speed can go from mild to a tear-the-shirt-from-your-back gale within a few steps.

From here the route climbs up into a forest of giant karri. The biggest are hundreds of years old with trunks that climb to dizzying heights before branches and leaves reach up further to seemingly grasp the passing clouds.

Gene, a wild-haired surfer, bushie and family man, mixes history, geology, aboriginal culture and a few tall tales as he evokes the spirit of this ancient land.

His accomplice and plant specialist Saul Cresswell explains that the poor soil quality has forced species to adapt or perish. He introduces us to the trigger plants with spring-loaded stamens that snatch unsuspecting insects; the snotty gobble with seeds covered in a gross mucus; and the leaves of the fartbush that, when scrunched, smell like … well you get the idea. There are 8000 plants in the region and it is officially listed as a biodiversity hotspot.

The porous limestone is also riddled with a series of more than 150 caves. Gene hands out torches and helmets before leading us into the maw of one of the grandest, Giant’s Cave.

We follow a trail that scrambles through narrow passageways, up and down ladders, stopping in each chamber to take in the different formations, some weighing several tonnes. Deep, deep underground we gather in “The Ballroom”, lie on our backs and take in a world where there is no light nor sound … just blood rushing by ear drums.

The surf of Margaret River offers adventure of a different sort. While some breaks along the coast have the power and shape to thrill the best pros (a round of the world series is held here each year), we novices are let loose on the benign but beautiful Smith’s Beach.

The Yallingup Surf School is headed by former world tour competitor Crystal Simpson and is a real family affair. Crystal has only recently given birth to baby Bam when we visit and he’s there on the beach along with a doting nanna and other family and friends.

All have the parchment skin, bleached hair and zinced-up features that suggests they spend as much time in the sea as out of it.

We watch a group of schoolgirls make surfing the small waves look oh so easy. But this is a pursuit where the wisdom of age is no match for the agility of youth.

The lesson starts on the beach where we are taught to lie on the board, then bend a leg up before springing to our feet supposedly in one panther-like movement. Even on this solid base it isn’t easy. Bouncing around in the surf, trying to co-ordinate the wave, the paddle, jumping up and keeping balance, it’s clear this might take some practice after all.

However, with encouragement and a timely launch from one of the school’s instructors, my board is caught by the wave surge and for one fleeting moment I’m up, standing ... surfing, of sorts.

Wait till I tell Layne Beachley. The former world surfing champ and her rock star husband, Kirk Pengilly, were two of the famous faces mingling with the crowds the day before during the Gourmet Beach BBQ, one of the most popular events in Margaret River’s Gourmet Escape.

If you think that a session of outdoor exertion is best followed by an equal and opposite evening of high-end indulgence, then the weekend of this food festival in late November is an opportunity not to miss.

As well as the Beach BBQ, which will again be overseen by fisher king Rick Stein, Gourmet Escape this year has a packed program of special dinners and other events spread around the area’s wineries and other venues including a brewery, a forest and a jetty. The all-star line-up of chefs and food heroes is led by the godfather of modern British cooking Marco Pierre White, Thai master David Thompson, Gaggan Anand, whose eponymous Bangkok restaurant is ranked in the world’s top 10, and local names such as Tetsuya Wakuda and George Calombaris.

At other times, Margaret River’s impressive spread of restaurants and other eateries have plenty to offer at all levels (see separate list). Or just head to the restaurant at Cullen’s cellar door where exec chef David Hull plucks much of the organic veg he uses from that same extraordinary patch of dirt.

WHERE TO EAT

WILLS DOMAIN

Recent renovations to cellar door and dining room give chef Seth James the setting he deserves. Try his carrots with grains and smoked yoghurt and see the veg in a new light. Marron is also highly recommended when available. willsdomain.com.au

MORRIES

This likeable eatery on the main road through Margaret River township does it all, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as covering all those hungry moments in between. morries.com.au

SWINGS TAPHOUSE

AND KITCHEN

Decent wine poured from a hi-tech tap to drink alongside a selection of tapas-style snacks (sardines, chorizo, chicken wings etc) as well as pizzas and a few heftier mains. Swings.com.au

GO2

MARGARET RIVER

GETTING THERE

Gourmet Escape is an annual food festival in November in the Margaret River wine region. Events are spread around cellar doors, restaurants and other locations.

gourmetescape.com.au

Margaret River is a three-hour drive south of Perth. South West Coach Lines operates regular services to the region. Gannaways runs buses between major satellite events at the festival.

STAYING THERE

Pullman Bunker Bay Resort is nestled behind the dunes facing a pristine stretch of beach. The bay is north-facing and offers sheltered conditions for swimming and other water activities.

Originally published as Margaret River’s Gourmet Escape a delicious taste of the best the region has to offer