This pub diner is one bright Sparkke
An entrepreneurial group of women have taken over a daggy city pub and turned it into a venue that should appeal to all, writes Simon Wilkinson
The dessert plates have just been cleared when our waitress returns with an unusual question.
“Would you mind if they sing a bit of karaoke?” she asks, gesturing to the crew in the booth by the door. A few seconds later one of the wannabe performers is at our table, checking if we have any requests.
Which brings to mind the welcoming message scrawled on the chalkboard above the bar: “Made by women, for everyone.”
The women, in this case, are the entrepreneurial brains behind Sparkke, the slogan-loving brewer with a social conscience that has now expanded its vision to operating a hotel in the southwest of the city.
And “everyone” means just that. After-work suits. Hops-lovin’ hipsters. Wine lovers. Old and young. Boys and girls. And, yes, karaoke crooners. All enjoying each other’s company in the same space.
An inspiring renovation and extension has created two levels of gathering spots, including private rooms, a rooftop terrace and well-stocked bottle shop.
Brickwork and beams have been exposed, walls knocked through and the whole structure reinforced by girders that look like they’d support the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Downstairs activities revolve around a central bar, with the stainless brewery tanks on one side, and open kitchen and dining zone on the other.
Sparkke has found a kindred spirit in chef Emma McCaskill to oversee its food. As well as fitting the gender brief, Emma has embraced the pub’s egalitarian ethos that is far removed from her background in elite restaurants here and overseas. It’s doubtful she imagined working anywhere like this during her years at Magill Estate.
The ethical brief also extends to wasting as little as possible, so a use is found for every possible offcut of meat and veg. And meals are supplied regularly to the church across the square that provides help to locals in need.
That’s not to say the cooking comes across as parsimonious or dull. Many of the plates positively bounce with bright flavours and big ideas, helped along in many cases by the roasted whole spices and seeds that can be traced back to Emma’s Indian heritage. It is food that changes the conversation about what a pub could or should be serving up.
Choose one of the varieties of dumplings to start – or better still, order them both. The pork and ginger version bob about in a glorious chicken bone broth that could easily be a soup on its own. The other filling is a mix of king brown and oyster mushrooms, the stock this time darker and made from house-dried porcini and soy.
A decadent, silky smooth dahl butter, that Emma describes as something like a lentil pate, is sprinkled with jet black nigella seeds and served with hot, flaky roti to tear and swipe.
The vego hits keep on coming. Broccolini is flash-fried, doused in lemon juice and dropped on a puddle of thick miso emulsion. Even a five-year-old will love it. Roasted cauli is partnered with hummus, pickled grapes and an Indian dukkah containing coriander, fennel, sesame and nigella that makes each mouthful a new adventure.
Meat serves are sized so they might be shared but could also be demolished by the hungry carnivore. Spice-rubbed pork shoulder, left to bubble in a pork stock for 24 hours, falls apart quicker than our local footy teams, collapsing into a wonderful mess of labne and squidgy eggplant, while pickled shallots, pomegranate and herbs stop things getting out of hand.
There’s more eggplant, this time pickled, with prawns that are cooked whole, so all the goop from the head melts into the sauce that reeks of pure prawniness. I’m a fan but it’s sure to divide the room.
The only downer is a pavlova that is all dry meringue and none of the chew or soft marshmallow that makes the dessert special. Plenty of whipped cream, poached quinces and an unusual date-like fruit known as ber (or jujube) keep it interesting.
Sparkke at the Whitmore is something special. There is an all-encompassing spirit about the place, the staff and what they serve up that is easy to fall for. Perhaps it is simply the different perspective that comes from having women in charge. Perhaps not. Either way it’s the best thing to happen in city pubs for a very long time.
SPARKKE AT THE WHITMORE
317 Morphett St, Adelaide
7123 0808; sparkke.com
OWNER Sparkke
CHEF Emma McCaskill
FOOD Contemporary
SMALL $5-$16
LARGER $18-$42
DESSERT $13
DRINKS Browse the bottle shop or consult the list at the table. Either way, there is an excellent selection of mostly local labels.
OPEN LUNCH and DINNER Daily
Score 16/20