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Hard to beat the Fox for a bite

Dianne Mattsson heads to this quirky Brit-themed bar and cosy diner that’s dizzyingly hectic with souvenir coasters, ditties, trophies, kitschy knick-knacks, stuffed animals, and even an eye-catching wall hanging listing Cockney rhyming slang.

Caesar salad in a tortilla bowl at the Fox & Firkin
Caesar salad in a tortilla bowl at the Fox & Firkin

Who dusts all of this stuff? We’re at what must be one of Adelaide’s busiest pubs. A Thursday crowd is filling most tables, sure, but it’s the quirky Brit-themed bar and cosy diner that’s dizzyingly hectic. On every conceivable surface, from pillars to ceiling beams, there are souvenir coasters, ditties, trophies, kitschy knick-knacks, stuffed animals, and even an eye-catching wall hanging listing Cockney rhyming slang.

If you’re dining out, say with the in-laws, and wondering what you might talk about, this is the place of conversation pieces.

Chicken and leek pie at the Fox & Firkin
Chicken and leek pie at the Fox & Firkin

When a former employee at the bar struggles to recommend a dish, it’s confirmed that imaginations have been expended on the atmosphere, rather than the food. Outside, somehow minus mosquitoes, we have views across the lush gully, and the road noise below us is soon forgotten.

Schnitzel with chilli con carne topping
Schnitzel with chilli con carne topping

We toy with starters of a chip butty, like school days except for the curry sauce, or Yorkshire pud and gravy. Instead, a grazing plate has giant slabs of garlic bread, dense chunks of ho-hum ham to match, arancini, spring rolls, “Cajun” chicken, squid, all tasting like it comes out of boxes, plus an olive and fetta mix and salad heavy on red onion.

Things do step up for the mains. A proper chicken Caesar with cos lettuce not overly dressed, and extra anchovies, as ordered, is a bit of fun in a crispy tortilla basket. Bad luck, the poached egg is cold.

Despite the Thai red curry’s chicken being overdone, it’s pub-good. The plate is scraped clean. A 250g schnitzel for $22 is again a bit overcooked. It becomes a monster, and easier to swallow with $7 worth of chilli con carne topping.

Best tonight, is a chicken and leek pie. The filling is a tad floury, but the meat is plentiful and tender, and the pastry is flaky on top and firm on the bottom.

The steaks look good, and we’re told we should have had the pulled pork sandwich. Maybe, if there’s a next time.

Fox & Firkin, 1370 North East Rd, Tea Tree Gully, 8263 3244

SCORE 6/10

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Original URL: https://www.adelaidenow.com.au/thesourcesa/hard-to-beat-the-fox-for-a-bite/news-story/6400c0ffe7467e9d236373ea8891a481