Fumo – a smart, moodlit Italian gem in Eastwood
Fumo, a smart, moodlit Italian gem in Eastwood offers serves of puffed up and toasty pizza that are so ample you might not have room for much more.
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In a rare move, we’re compelled to have pizza at Fumo, a smart, moodlit Italian gem.
A domed wood oven dominates the open kitchen and contributes to tantalising aromas that strike our hungry senses the moment we step out of the blustery night into this truly cosy restaurant.
When we’re torn about our order, the waiter does a pizza rave. Then, we spy one beautiful specimen, all puffed up and toasty, passing our table. Deal clinched.
With pizza and pasta the menu mainstays, it’s not a bad thing that the starters list is small. We resist antipasto or a simple schiacciata 10” (garlic pizza base with tomato, basil and fior de latte), and instead share the Fumo wood-fired focaccia, which is actually a full roll, with bread top and bottom, like you might have for lunch.
It’s quartered ready to share and it’s delicious, the bread delightfully charred and singed then slightly doughy where it melds with shredded chicken breast, pancetta, tomatoes, gooey cheese, greens and mayo.
For midweek lunch, or for an unusual starter, it wins a tick.
For mains, t’other succumbs, and picks the 12” pizza special, with a fitting moniker of “piccante”. Salty punches of olives, capers, and anchovies with chilli and salami would be a bit much if not for the base, thin at the centre with a wide chewy char-pocked rim that has ballooned in the wood-fire heat, and works to soak up those intense topping flavours.
There’s food envy around the table, where we’re also pretty happy with the pasta. Ample serves on large black plates, at first look a bit light on.
The mod presentation is deceiving, the portions just right. A luscious linguine al granchio is loaded with sugo napoletano, sweetened by abundant blue swimmer crab meat. Al dente penne tossed with chicken breast from that fiery oven is fused with semi-dried tomatoes and rosé sauce.
Nutella calzone is a house special, or there’s apple crumble and citrussy tarts handmade elsewhere. Our pizza and pasta have been satisfying enough.
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