Dianne Mattsson: Grazing at Akoma in Stirling

Healthy vegie bowls and homely nourishment are the signature of Stirling cafe Akoma and Co, writes Dianne Mattsson

WE love to empty the fridge and toss together a dinner surprise, loaded with colour and a mix of flavours you’d never see in an actual recipe. The cold and warm combos are generally tasty and guilt-free because they’re loaded with fresh ingredients due to be eaten (never mind a slightly saggy bean here and there).

The cafe bowl-food trend is a step up on this style of comfort food, without the limp vegies and leftovers factor. And somehow, most bowls avoid the portion-size police and deliver good value.

Akoma and Co Cafe in Stirling picture: Dianne Mattsson

Such is the case with the giant $15 “nourish bowl” at Stirling’s charming corner cafe, Akoma & Co. It’s easily shared, especially if you add Harris Smoked salmon for an extra $6, and/or $2 free-range egg.

The bowl reflects the kitchen’s seasonal stores. Today, it’s a homely mountain of wholemeal penne coated with nicely seasoned pesto, couscous, at least half a dozen different raw and lightly cooked greens, plus a contrasting splodge of skordalia dotted with black sesame seeds, topped with bright pickles and seeds.

The tummy’s-full alarm peels, but it’s hard to stop digging in for another bit of earthy roast pumpkin, capsicum, crunchy beans and al dente pasta. Even the kale (not my fave), works when threaded on to multi-food forks.

Raw tart with raspberry and pistachio. Akoma of Stirling for Graze. Picture: Dianne Mattsson

All-day brekkies are also generous and well under $20. There’s smashed avo etc, plus fritters, green eggs, less-guilt-free pancakes, or “doorstop egg” with Udder Delights goat curd, caramelly onion and roasted mushrooms. Hot chocolate is okay, but better to stick with the healthful theme and sip on a green smoothie, or banana “bliss” with chia seeds and rice milk. Or, lash out on a Snickers smoothie of coconut milk, peanut butter, dates, cocoa and maple syrup. The fridge is filled with local kombucha, organic juices and nut milks.

“A local lady” provides raw desserts, if you like. Her pistachio and raspberry tart is rich, a tad beyond three-bites-size, and satisfyingly gooey in a cookie-dough way.