Agatha’s – where it’s summer all year round

Eclectic outdoorsy decor, pops of colour and hearty dishes that all get a tick.

Middle Eastern pulled lamb, roasted pumpkin, feta, chickpeas, beetroot tapenade, flatbread and a lemon herb yoghurt at Agatha's. Photo: Dianne Mattsson

Someone has been cleverly reading the audience at this charming cafe just a skip from the beach. Locals have been surfing its ever-agreeable menu for more than 20 years.

We cannot see the sea, but it always feels summery at Agatha’s. The open-or-shut verandah space has trunk-style pillars, eclectic outdoorsy decor and some pops of colour in art lending the welcoming vibe of a holiday home stretched and juggled to fit growing demand.

Loaded lamb wrap with plum sriracha sauce. Photo: Dianne Mattsson

The crew exudes a matching festive attitude, and, the solid cooking successfully attracts a steady turnaround of bums on seats. It caters well for families, and the pay-as-you-order system suits groups keen to avoid the messy splitting of bills.

The menu, for brekky and lunch plus weekend dinners, covers cafe bases from smashed avo to chia puddings, burgers to gnocchi, and enough colourful on-trend tweaks, vegan and vego options.

Our girls’ group – some on wine, some on coffee – prove its diversity.

Agatha's, Port Noarlunga. Photo: Dianne Mattsson

Lunch for one is a towering Outlaw Burger, of slow-cooked pulled beef, American style with red cheddar and slaw. Across the table, a vego Fun-Guy burger packed with a patty of Moroccan mushroom, chickpeas and pumpkin, has lots more going on with tomato, haloumi, spinach, beetroot relish and harissa. Phew, it’s a big $16 bargain.

A lamb bowl with even more ingredients, gets another tick. My lamb wrap looks scant for $17, but it’s delicious and chock-full of tender meat and crunchy salad all dripping with tongue-tickling siracha sauce.

Roasted pumpkin and feta tart with beetroot tapenade, topped with crispy sweet potato and harissa. Photo: Dianne Mattsson

Then, there’s the pretty one in this hearty mix. The A Change of Tart pastry is a tad blonde, yet enchants us all. Again, a busy list of ingredients fills the flan of roasted pumpkin, caramelised onion, spinach and feta, with plops of harissa, bright beetroot tapenade, a hat of fresh greens and feta, adorned with pine nuts and a flourish of sweet potato ribbons.

While there might be some kitchen short cuts, the overall focus is on pleasing the crowds with value, freshness, and a breezy air.