The gold rush city of Bendigo is Victoria's new capital of gastronomy

Strike gold in Bendigo, a foodie’s paradise just a short trip from Melbourne.

Bendigo has been named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. Picture: Getty Images

I hadn’t expected a former gold rush town to be a foodie destination.

When I heard that Bendigo had been crowned a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, I pulled on my stretchy pants and hit the highway and arrived in town in time for lunch.

I took my first bite of Bendigo after slipping into The Dispensary in Chancery Lane. A mushroom and tofu bao coupled with a Persian lemonade containing gin, lemon, honey, smoked rosemary and rose water was an excellent introduction to the gastronomic breadth of the city.

Next I visited the bakery that everyone, and I mean everyone, raves about: The Good Loaf. Their sourdough is served in almost every cafe and restaurant in town. Tucking into a pumpkin roll I wished it was Easter: I’ve heard a lot about the award-winning semi sourdough hot cross buns.

Chancery Lane is a great first port of call in Bendigo. Picture: Visit Victoria

Dinner on the first night of my trip was at Ms Batterhams, a former schoolhouse with the feel of a speakeasy. Velvet furniture, elegant booths, quirky artworks, and impeccable staff make this a special occasion destination. The food is the real hero of the school; cauliflower crackers, marinated olives, lamb croquettes with pickled peppers, barramundi with two different kinds of asparagus. I linger over the rich flavours of the meal until bedtime beckons.

My evening meal the second night was at Masons of Bendigo, a refined dining establishment. It’s no surprise to discover that owners, Sonya and Nick Anthony, have cheffed around the world with the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Teague Ezard, and were part of the original Melbourne gastropub team at The Carringbush. Their restaurant, housed in an old glassworks factory, is a testament to their love of fresh, regional food. On every dish you find micro herbs from local grower, B and B Basil.

Ms Batterhams has a speakeasy feel with spectacular food. Picture: Ms Batterhams

Smoked miso butter arrives in a perfectly formed shell on the board with four slices of seeded sourdough standing like sentinels. The smoky flavour adds a sophisticated touch. The ensuing courses delight with similar twists and turns. The nasi goreng, with quail, transports me to the streets of Malaysia. A smoked ricotta stuffed zucchini flower on a bed of piccalilli with green tomatoes doesn’t disappoint, and the crispy cavolo nero adds drama to the dish. A cream cheese mousse with caramelised quince, gingerbread and ice cream is the perfect end to a stylish and elegant meal.

Weekends are for wineries and the greater Bendigo region is home to more than 60 cellar doors. Just out of town lies the Sandhurst Ridge winery. Brothers, Paul and George Greblo, sons of Italian immigrants, have built their father’s dream vineyard and cellar door making distinctive award-winning Italian style wines. A night in a cottage on the property and a morning vineyard walk was a lovely way to start a day of wine tasting.

Stay at Balgownie Estate, the oldest winery in the region. Picture: Balgownie Estate

A minute or two up the road the oldest winery in the region, Balgownie Estate, also has accommodation for those who love to sleep alongside the vines. The electric blankets and bedside lamps in the glamping tents are a treat for me - tents usually mean roughing it. Set amongst gum tees, it offers all the lovely things about camping, without the tricky bits - mud, sticks poking up through the tent floor, sleeping bags, lost torches. Having a cellar door and top-quality restaurant within stumbling distance is the icing on the cake.

Luckily for me, the Bendigo region also includes the Heathcote wineries, so I had an exceptional day learning about the volcanic soil in the area and its importance to the quality of the grapes. At Vinea Marson, Mario Marson shares his stories over a tasting of their Rosato, Prosecco and Grazia. Nearby, Pete and Tracey Young from Silver Spoon showcase their five specialty wines: Shiraz, Tempranillo, Grenache, Viognier and Mourvedre. Their retirement hobby, an off-grid, solar powered winery has been a raging success.

Rosalind Park is the perfect place to stretch your legs between eats. Picture: Getty Images

The sun was shining brightly when I arrived at Peregrine Ridge Winery which opened in late 2020. Sipping a sublime Shiraz, I learned about the different properties of French and American oak, while gazing out through the grand floor to ceiling windows to a spectacular view of the Goulburn Valley.

The Bendigo region has more to offer tourists than just amazing food. Back in town, I joined a heritage walking tour to learn about the architecture and history of the town. Pete and Jill Hanlon are gracious, funny hosts with tantalising and thoroughly researched tales of strategic town planners, gold diggers and merchants from days gone by. They also share their personal tales. Pete tells me about his dad who’s first job was at the Bank, now an elegant bar called The Wine Bank.

Wine Bank on View has had a total transformation. Picture: Emily Godfrey

On my way home, I call in on a social enterprise, Pepper Green Farm. Formerly the site of the Chinese market gardens, the farm offers employment opportunities to 100 people with disabilities, training them in various aspects of the operation: garden care, kitchen skills, cafe and store customer service.

For those seeking a peaceful and spiritual interlude, the Great Stupa of Universal Compassion is a Tibetan Buddhist stupa just a few kilometres from town. Just as there are many paths to the top of a mountain, the stupa has many doors and is surrounded by gardens that offer places for reflection and prayer.

Markets, antique stores, art galleries and goldfields history are just some of the ingredients that make Bendigo such a melting pot of experiences and flavours. Bendigo truly is a place to satisfy your hunger for the good life.

Get there

Trains leave every hour from Melbourne’s Southern Cross station, or you can drive just 154km up the Calder Highway. Qantas also operates five flights a week from Sydney.

See also:

I found Australia’s coolest regional city

Striking detail in Bendigo luxury hotel

Store that supplied Bendigo’s gold diggers

Road-tripping through regional Victoria

Originally published as The gold rush city of Bendigo is Victoria's new capital of gastronomy