SA Weekend restaurant review: You won’t recognise this pub in the ‘burbs after extreme makeover

This iconic western suburbs hotel has a new look and a radically revamped menu. So what’s our reviewer’s verdict?

Hotel Royal is a Torrensville institution.

Hotel Royal has said “Hasta la vista, baby” to a Mexican menu and “G’day” to its take on modern Australian.

A western suburbs institution, the Torrensville pub is almost unrecognisable. Its restaurant and bar now open on to a new outdoor area, which a member of staff tells me has a retractable roof to make the most of sunny days.

The dining area feels airy, and the decor is warm, with lots of wood, greens and blues and on-trend tropical wallpaper. There are also nice touches, such as hooks for handbags on the tables.

We are in a booth with power points and mobile phone charger outlets, which would be handy during a business meeting.

Hotel Royal’s new dining room.

But today my friend and I are having a leisurely Sunday lunch. Handed menus, we are invited to order using a QR code or at the bar. Truth be told, we are table service people. That said, being able to take our time and order as we go is appreciated, seeing as we are in no hurry to be anywhere.

While the drinks list is filled with familiar SA wines, we enjoy complimentary table water.

We begin with sliders. Served in brioche buns, the crispy, deep fried pork belly is firm but tender and its strong flavour is balanced by a refreshing slaw and pickled onion chutney.

Our second starter is purple sweet potato hommus. More like a paste than a dip, its sweetness is countered by parsley oil. It is served with flatbread, which is the surprise – to borrow from MasterChef vocabulary – “hero” of the dish.

Hotel Royal slider.

Hotel Royal’s purple sweet potato hommus.

The eight large triangles are perfectly seasoned with rosemary and rock salt.

For those who can’t choose between soft or hard flatbread, they cater to both preferences, starting off all chewy-doughy to finish in crunchy points. Designed to be shared by two or more, this starter is a meal in itself.

I should inform you Hotel Royal boasts its modern Australian menu is “exquisite”.

It is a bold claim.

While there are pub classics such as schnitzels and chips with aioli, Hotel Royal seems keen to set itself apart from its competitors. For example, there is no sign of cheap and cheerful “feeds” such as a “schnitty and a beer night”.

Rather, the pub’s restaurant is aligning itself with more up-market eateries by offering a feed me option and slow-cooked specialties.

They include our choice of main, which we opt to share, a lamb ragu.

Pappardelle, smothered in a delicious truffle rose sauce with 12-hour pulled lamb, has been twirled into a bowl decorated with basil oil.

The dish is lightly sprinkled with bitey, parmesan cheese.

We are spoiled with choice when it comes to sides. There are potato options, heirloom carrots, a caprese salad and more.

We opt for a broccolini and asparagus dish, cooked in chilli honey, with toasted almond flakes and a little parmesan. The greens and pasta are a perfect pairing.

Hotel Royal’s lamb ragu.

Hotel Royal’s broccolini and asparagus.

While it is delicious, there is a lot of broccolini left over, and our waiter – who has been generous in offering side plates, serviettes and serving implements throughout our meal – brings us a welcome take home container.

Having deliberately saved room for dessert, I am tempted by a peanut butter panna cotta.

Artfully shaped and beautifully presented, I ask our waiter if it has been made in-house.

It has, like almost everything on the menu.

Served with chocolate dirt and freeze-dried raspberries and compote, it has the consistency of thick, gooey peanut butter.

Hotel Royal’s new outdoor space. Picture: Supplied

It is not the creamy, gelatinous panna cotta I craved but there was a crowd-pleaser in the room.

Well known Adelaide muso Mason Lloyde is doing an acoustic set of favourite songs, including a cool rendition of Fly Me To The Moon.

What’s not like about a pub that’s taking its menu to another level and supporting live, local music?