SA Weekend restaurant review: Adelaide’s Botanic Lodge

Same owners, similar view but a completely different price point. So does it rival the best restaurant in SA? Our reviewer gives her verdict.

You know how it is. You’ve got family or friends visiting and you want to take them out for “just a casual lunch” … but it has to be anything but ordinary.

You could go somewhere with an ocean view or overlooking a vineyard.

But what if you could find an oasis in the city?

The search is over. Botanic Lodge is all that.

West of Restaurant ­Botanic in our world-famous garden – where Simpson Kiosk used to be – it overlooks an ornamental lake and is surrounded by lush, green vegetation.

No visitors? Just be a tourist in your own town. Plus, December’s great weather is the perfect excuse for lunch outdoors.

Botanic Lodge.

That was our plan when we booked, but this Wednesday it’s a little rainy, so we sit inside.

Still, there are huge windows framing the exotic view, so what’s not to love.

The surrounds also inspire the menu created by chef Tom Tilbury, of Coriole and Press Food and Wine fame; produce sourced from local bespoke suppliers such as Presqil and ingredients foraged from Adelaide Botanic Garden feature in many of the dishes.

Botanic Lodge head chef Tom Tilbury. Picture: Harry Winnall and Duy Dash

And the drinks list is extensive for a venue that’s only open for lunch.

I kick things off with a Fingerlime Spritz, a botanic twist on, and a refreshing change from, the summer favourite Aperol Spritz.

My partner chooses the Garden of Health Tonic; he tells me it’s like a non-alcoholic Campari. I have a sip and it’s better than any mocktail I’ve ever tasted.

With help from our friendly, attentive waiter Julius, we order our food. There’s something for all tastes, including Gazander Coffin Bay oysters and kangaroo.

We start with a crusty sourdough, which comes with moreish butter swirled with molasses and smoked salt. Next it’s zucchinis. Sliced lengthways, the firm halves are sauteed in a tasty, zesty white pea and citrus sauce.

Botanic Lodge’s sourdough. Picture: Anna Vlach

Botanic Lodge’s orecchiette. Picture: Anna Vlach

We follow them with the orecchiette, in a rich, creamy green pesto of peas and mint, dressed with broad bean leaves, pecorino and a mystery ingredient to give it a satisfying crunch. We chew on it until we recognise it to be pepitas.

While the pasta dish is designed to be a share plate, vegetarians, who are often starved for choice, would happily make a meal of it.

Similarly, pescetarians would savour the barramundi. Served whole, it has been completely filleted. There is not a single bone and it has been cooked to perfection over coals. Juicy and sweet, it is not only complemented, but also elevated, by an assortment of green leaves bound by a light citrus dressing.

Botanic Lodge’s Barra. Picture: Supplied

At Julius’s suggestion we enjoy it with a side of fries which come with “garden herb” aioli.

As the name suggests, it is green and, again, there’s an ingredient we are sure we know – it’s dill, which gives it a distinct flavour, making it a welcome change from, and less acidic than, run-of-the-mill aioli.

Tilbury was also keen for Botanic Lodge to have a touch of nostalgia. The Golden Gaytime parfait, is, no doubt, a nod to Simpson Kiosk. The dessert comes on an ice cold plate and the flavours are all there. Nonetheless, we can’t help wishing we had ordered something in keeping with the botanical theme such as the passionfruit sorbet with melon and basil or the lamington with quandong jam.

Botanic Lodge’a Golden Gaytime-inspired dessert. Picture: Anna Vlach

We finish with coffee, served in trendy pottery sipper cups, which may be too hot to handle for some. Handles would be a nice touch.

That said, Botanic Lodge has it all, and the unequalled views include something you really won’t see anywhere else: glass sculptures which form part of the Chihuly exhibition on display in Adelaide Botanic Garden until late April. Entry to the exhibit is free during the day. Lunch and a show, anyone?

Botanic Lodge and some of the Chihuly exhibition. Picture: Supplied