SA restaurant review | European Cafe on The Parade, Norwood

Our food reviewer has discovered a humble eastern suburbs restaurant run by the same family for nearly 50 years that is pumping out a better experience than many of the big names.

The Cavuoto family has turned European Cafe at Norwood into a dining institution over almost 50 years.

It’s prime time on a Friday night at one of Adelaide’s most iconic restaurants.

The place is heaving but many of the diners around us aren’t old enough to drive a car let alone order an alcoholic beverage.

These tiny tots, giggly young girls and pizza-munching teens might be on school holidays but they are still learning some crucial life lessons. The importance of a warm welcome.

The power of timeless dishes cooked with pride. The joy of sharing a meal with their loved ones. And I can’t think of anywhere better for this education than the European Cafe.

European Cafe at Norwood has a very homely feel after being run by the Cavuoto family for nearly 50 years.

Crisp polenta, spinach and gorgonzola cream.

The European is the very definition of a family restaurant. It has been run by one family, headed by Giorgio (George) and Gabriella (Gabby) Cavuoto, since 1979.

Over that time, they have served local families, seen their children grow up and eventually bring in the next generation.

And it is the enduring connection between the owners and their customers that makes it extra special.

The European legacy goes back even further, with a cafe opening at this location on The Parade at Norwood in the mid-1950s.

When the Cavuotos took over, it was part coffee lounge, part pizzeria and stayed open for young revellers seeking sustenance until the wee hours of the morning.

While working incredible hours, they slowly transformed the business into a fully licensed restaurant, as well as bringing up three children.

One of those, middle son Ricardo, is now head chef, bringing a few more modern concepts into the kitchen where he works beside his mum.

The modest interior of European Cafe does not speak to the quality of its food.

Sopressa and chilli honey pizza.

All this history comes to life in the two dining rooms at the front of the European where the carefully polished timber features, floral light fittings and magnificent old sideboard should be given a heritage listing.

Framed black-and-white pictures of the Cavuotos and their relatives cover the walls.

Space is tight and navigating between tables is a challenge for both staff and those heading to the loo.

None of this feels fractious or chaotic, however. Our waiter is a card and still finds time for a joke and even a magic trick as he helps sort the order.

At this point the cooking could be no more than solid and I’d still be smitten.

It’s far better than that. The menu format and names of most dishes might be familiar but the classics here are rendered with such heart and verve that they feel as relevant as ever.

Pizza and other offerings at European Cafe.

Polenta, a rare find in itself, is turned into crisp fried ingots that are dunked into a fabulously rich gorgonzola cream sauce.

A heap of sauteed spinach – the proper, sturdy stuff for once, rather than feeble baby leaves – helps keep it grounded. What a cracker.

Our other starter is the one small misstep with carpaccio of beef fillet so finely shaved and timidly seasoned that it struggles to make an impression beneath a thatch of rocket, fried capers and shredded parmesan.

From the specials, a beef cheek has been slowly reduced to a dark, glossy gelatinous blob full of meaty, winey flavour that gives so easily it could be eaten with the wrong end of the cutlery.

It is nestled into a bed of buttery mashed potato surrounded by the braising liquid and finished with shaved carrot and a sprinkle of gremolata. Now that’s proper master chef stuff.

Simpler but perfectly executed, crumbled Italian sausage mince and broccoli is tossed with twists of casarecce pasta coated in just enough of the fatty juices emulsified with a little butter. Parmesan and lemon rind add a little one-two punch at the end.

The boozy tiramisu and panna cotta are hits off the dessert menu.

For dessert, panna cotta jiggles and wiggles as the plate is moved but still stays standing up.

Exactly the right amount of gelatine has been used and little black dots on the surface show that there is also plenty of vanilla. A mixed berry coulis and clumps of almond crumble seal the deal.

And while the tiramisu looks a tad unwieldy in its sundae coupe, the balance of power between mascarpone, cocoa powder and savoiardi fingers soaked in espresso and marsala is spot on.

It’s just a little boozy, as it should be, so probably best to keep from the children.