Restaurant review | Taikunthi at the University of Adelaide

A $30 steak is the most expensive thing on the menu at a polished restaurant in the heart of academia.

Taikunthi restaurant in the old Adelaide UniBar in Adelaide, SA. Picture: Supplied

The universities of Adelaide played no part in the academic development of my formative years but they sure taught me a lot about socialising.

The cheap drinks and dart boards of the Flinders Uni tavern were a Friday night ritual. Adelaide Uni’s contribution was Skullduggery, where large receptacles were filled from beer taps and soaked revellers pogoed to bands on a slippery dance floor.

That was the early eighties, a very different time, and we’ve all grown up since then, including these institutions.

Climb up to the fifth floor of the heritage-listed Union House and what was originally the Adelaide UniBar has now become Taikunthi, a cafe/restaurant with all the trimmings you’d expect of a flashy main street venue – from strong contemporary cooking to polished service to bespoke glazed crockery and a killer wine list. Prices are surprisingly low and, best of all, the public is welcome.

Panna cotta at Taikunthi restaurant at the University of Adelaide. Picture: Supplied

Taking its name from a Kaurna word meaning join or unite together, Taikunthi (pronounced tie-goon-dee) opened quietly earlier this year, part of a long-running project to revamp the entire Union building.

This large and beautifully finished dining room is structured in three zones, with a row of swish upholstered booths closest to the entry, standard tables in the middle and a more relaxed lounge area on the far side for coffee catch-ups and laptop browsing. Expanded openings lead out to a balcony that, along with the straw ceiling, is about the only recognisable feature from the original.

The university has used its affiliation with the National Wine Centre to bring in professionals to ensure it runs smoothly. The NWC’s expertise and industry contacts have also delivered a wine list that is full of interesting and highly drinkable local labels, many of them in the $50-$60 price bracket.

And chef Julian Nicolas, with a background including The Lane, Peel St and Mount Lofty House, has made the move down North Tce to run the kitchen.

Flathead at Taikunthi. Picture: Supplied

His menu for lunch is smart, flexible and reflects the way people are choosing to eat during the day. For initial impact, you won’t top the first bite of the pastry shell on a special of kataifi prawns that scores an 11 out of 10 on the Richter scale of crispness. The prawn itself is in good nick inside its armour of golden threads, while the carrot tzatziki underneath is finished with a sprinkle of sumac.

A pan-fried slab of haloumi is loaded with an ensemble of grilled radicchio leaves and persimmon slices finished with hazelnuts and a balsamic dressing, with the creamy and salty, bitter and sweet, slippery and crunchy, all having the best fun together. It’s all impressive.

Strips of flathead are baked beneath a blanket of tahini sauce and crushed macadamia crumble, a method best suited to the thicker pieces of fish that retain some lustre. Shaved fennel ribbons and karkalla stems are added to a perky herb salad that is a recurring theme through the meal.

Poached fruit at Taikunthi. Picture: Supplied

Chunks of braised lamb in a rich, slightly oily tomato-based sauce forms the ragu sauce for al dente pappardelle that is scattered with toasted breadcrumbs, lemon rind and parmesan.

Rump cap is grilled to a precise medium-rare and served sliced with a native pepper jus, chat potatoes and herb oil. At $30, it is the most expensive thing on the menu, but compared to steak almost everywhere else a total bargain.

To finish, a shallow layer of honey-tinged panna cotta at the bottom of a glazed ceramic dish has just enough gelatine to hold up slices of poached quinces and pears doused in their syrup, nubs of chewy honeycomb and a pistachio crumb – elements that all make beautiful music together.

It’s a nice spot for a relaxed, healthy meal. Picture: Supplied

The richness of soft-centred chocolate brownie countered by the tang of a rhubarb and quandong compote also balances well.

Taikunthi is a complete surprise. Close to the middle of the city, it still feels removed from work-day hassles and offers an affordable lunch option of an impressively high standard. They even pour the beer into proper glassware!