Restaurant review: Gilbert’s Wine and Grill in Torrensville

While hospitality venues across the state are shutting shop, there’s one that is opening more and more restaurants. Here’s how it is thriving while many are surviving.

Pork chop with mustard slaw and salsa macha at Gilbert's Wine and Grill, Torrensville.

A popular inner-suburban venue has taken its winning formula to the other side of town.

That Gilbert sure does get around. Over the past year or so, Good Gilbert, the much-loved little wine bar on Goodwood Rd, has given rise to a neighbouring Middle Eastern restaurant, two burger bars and, most recently, an American-inspired grill in the inner-western suburbs. Looking for clues to the connection between all these random pieces? An intuitive feel for the surrounding community is one. But the most important factor is a knack for involving some very talented people.

Step from the ruckus of peak-hour Henley Beach Rd through the front door of Gilbert’s Wine and Grill, and you will be greeted like an old buddy. Steve Tzanakis is one of the owners. Good Gilbert founder Wilson Shawyer is also involved. The third partner, Ash Peek, takes care of the kitchen. Recognising this neighbourhood, like Goodwood, is thirsty (pun intended) for a savvy, drinks-focused place to gather, they set to work repurposing an old burger outlet already owned by Tzanakis.

Everything front of house has been gutted and transformed into a space that feels more contemporary Parisian bistro than American diner. Burnt orange upholstery and terracotta subway tiles pop against deep sage walls covered in a fabulous mix of photographs and posters.

Small square tables are spread between booths, banquettes and conventional settings – fine for a couple but not sufficient for bigger groups (our trio) trying to shuffle the accoutrement of a shared meal.

Interior at Gilbert's Wine and Grill, Torrensville. Picture Tom Lane Photography

Beef short rib with espresso caramel at Gilbert's Wine and Grill, Torrensville.

Of course, you might just be here for a drink and a nibble. Nothing wrong with that when the wine selection has been curated to cover a broad range of styles from died-in-the-wool traditional to something more anarchic (check out the Uva di Troia and its label). Bottle prices start in the sixties but you will need to add another two zeros for a Chambertin grand cru burgundy.

For us, one sip of the MMAD Blewitt Springs rose is all it takes to turn the order from a glass into a bottle. Goodness, it is drinkable and gets on swimmingly with a plate that teams the creamy funk of goat’s curd and salty tang of top-quality Olasagasti white anchovies. Tear away a piece of grilled bread, load it with curd, top with parsley and pickled red onion, and finally a few of those magnificent little fish.

Lasagne sticks are at the other end of the snack spectrum. They are for those who like to give their meal a solid foundation, with layer-upon-layer of pasta cut into a block, crumbed and fried, before covering in an avalanche of grated parmesan and laying on a robust sugo. It’s a gluten extravaganza, all right, and ridiculously filling, but, as we’ve been promised, also hard to stop eating.

Lasagne sticks at Gilbert's Wine and Grill, Torrensville.

A strong offering of veg-based plates, hot and cold, includes two of summer’s greatest treats buddying up in a salad of tomato and stone fruit, in this case white nectarine. A splat of orange-blossom underneath, a drizzle of herb oil and, finally, a scattering of crushed almonds help to cement a relationship that would be stronger if the tommies had more flavour.

On the protein side, there is no fish or seafood but a quartet of different steaks cater to various budgets and burgers are available to order in house, as well as take away. Beyond that a grilled and roasted pork chop is carved into thick slices and arranged beside the bone, along with a cabbage-based slaw and a brilliant Mexican dried chilli salsa that, like King Midas, turns all it touches to gold. That’s a good thing because the pork meat itself is a little dry and too lean to have any proper piggy character.

A slow (we’re talking at least 12 hours here) braised beef short rib is so soft and luscious it’s like pushing a spoon into a bowl of custard. A coffee rub enhances the meat’s natural flavour, the mash is exemplary but an espresso caramel sauce teeters just too far over to the sweet side.

Finally, the peach cobbler is an old-fashioned dessert done complete justice, with plenty of stone fruit chunks set in a cake-style batter, crisped on top with a final stint in the oven.

So how good is Gilbert’s? At this early point in its life, the service is already top-notch and the wine list a beauty, while a young-at-heart local crowd keeps the joint jumping. With a change to the menu and a few tweaks in the kitchen, the west should also be on a winner.

172 Henley Beach Rd, Torrensville

8234 5679

gilbertswinebar.com

Main courses

$19-$80

Open

Lunch, dinner daily

Must try

Beef short rib; peach cobbler

Verdict

Food 13/20

Ambience 16/20

Service 15/20

Value 14/20

Overall 14/20

As a guide, scores indicate:

1-9 Fail; 10-11 Satisfactory;
12-14 Recommended; 15-16 Very Good; 17-18 Outstanding;
19-20 World Class

delicious.com.au/eatout