Marion Hotel review: There’s something for everyone
A suburban pub, which has had a $20m transformation, includes two dining spaces and something for everyone, writes Simon Wilkinson.
Food & Wine
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It’s early in the evening and a small bunch of mates have gathered for a drink beneath the canopy of a large tree. Glowing spheres hang overhead like a constellation of full moons and the leaves are whispering excitedly in the light breeze.
If you are thinking parklands and picnic rugs you are on the wrong track. This blissful scene is part of the stunning transformation of the Marion Hotel.
More than 18 months in the making at a cost of $20m, these changes have turned a large but otherwise unremarkable suburban pub into a drawcard destination for its own community and beyond.
The pink neon slogan that hangs on one wall puts it simply: “Same, same but different.”
From the car park, the most striking addition is the 62-room motel tower that means those attending weddings and other events in the new function spaces can also stay the night.
A circular, open-topped room of glass with that tree at its hub is the start of The Garden, the more casual side of the operation, with food ordered at the bar, a mix of high, low and booth seating and more TVs to watch the footy than you’d find at Harvey Norman.
The slightly more formal dining room at the other end takes bookings (recommended) and has table service from a brigade of young staff all punching orders into their tablets.
This system seems to work OK for meals but, on my experience, unless you are happy to wait 20 or so minutes for a drink, it’s better heading to the bar.
Menus for the two zones are presented differently but based around the same dishes with a small price adjustment.
They cover vast territory, which might explain the large number of family gatherings and choruses of Happy Birthday. Nanna can have fish and chips, dad a smoky chunk of meat and young Billy a burger. His teenage sister, meanwhile, will be thrilled to see all those bowls and vego/vegan options.
Given that everything comes out of the same kitchen, the cooking shows quite a bit of finesse.
Smoked duck breast, for instance, is sliced lengthwise to show off rosy flesh that has the colour and the aroma of a fine leg of ham. It is accompanied by smashed kipfler potatoes, broccolini and a “three mushroom glaze”.
A handsome pork ribeye comes from the Yoder barbecue with a whiff of smoke, a glossy mahogany finish and neatly drawn stripes of char.
It is propped up on a mound of buttery mash, while a warm salad of pumpkin, lightly pickled beetroot, spinach leaves and walnuts adds a sense of balance. The meat still has a pale pink tinge and is particularly sweet and juicy where it joins the bone.
Lamb rack, meanwhile, is partnered by a vivid green pea puree, smashed potatoes and peach mustard.
All three plates would benefit from the extra depth of a properly reduced sauce or jus.
A second visit, this time to The Garden, is more focused on the vegies. Slices of well-tanned grilled haloumi are sprinkled with a crumble of crisped kale and dollops of “zaalouk”, a spiced eggplant and tomato relish similar to kasundi.
“Mushroom wellington” is a sausage-less roll of excellent flaky pastry plump with a filling of sliced buttons that could do with a little extra seasoning.
The hero of the plate, however, are sweet potato fries that are so hot, crisp and salty I may never look at a potato chip with the same degree of affection again.
The “Soul Food” bowl has a solid base of top-quality black/green lentils and pumpkin but is undermined by the cauliflower and broccoli that has been cooked until it no longer has a pulse and looks quite drab.
The dessert list is quite the opposite, with choices such as Coca-Cola brownie with cherry syrup and a peanut butter cookie with raspberry gel.
Apple pie also gets a makeover, with the fruit smoked and soused with bourbon before being loaded into a pastry case. Good for Jim Beam drinkers, perhaps, but not my cup of tea.
Still, you have to hand it to the Marion. Of the many suburban pub renovations around town, this might be the most ambitious.
The kitchen has a real crack at catering to everyone who walks through the door but a little extra refinement here and there is needed to make this a complete package. After all, as it says on the front of the menu: “The best memories are made around the table”.
MARION HOTEL
849 Marion Road, Mitchell Park
8276 8888; marionhotel.com.au
OWNER Hurley Hotel Group
CHEF Trent Benbow
FOOD Pub / contemporary
SMALL $8.50-$22
MAIN $19-$36
DESSERT $12
DRINKS Comprehensive list of SA-only wines, with good choices by the glass and two pour sizes. Local gins also showcased.
OPEN BREAKFAST, LUNCH and DINNER Daily
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