Chef Matt Moran’s tips for a relaxed Australia Day celebration

AN Australia Day feast can take many forms but chef Matt Moran says the key is to keep it simple, relaxed and with a focus on our best produce.

WE LIVE in a land of dramatic contrasts. The most obvious are the landscapes, of course, from the parched interior where the dry air crackles, to the lush rainforests of the tropics, to the thundering surf and salty mist of the weather-beaten southern coast.

Even in the big cities, however, moving from suburb to suburb, street to street, home to home, reveals a colourful tapestry of traditions old and new in one of the world’s most multicultural communities.

Put all of this together and an Australia Day celebration can taken many different forms — just as long as it stays relaxed, says Matt Moran.

“It could be a simple barbecue, lying on a floatie in the pool with a beer in hand,” the chef, restaurateur and TV personality suggests.

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Chef Matt Moran.

Matt Moran's latest book.

Matt spent part of his childhood growing up on a farm and now lives by the sea, so he has an affinity with both settings, especially when it comes to the food they produce. It’s a theme that has shaped his latest book, Australian Food: Coast + Country.

“Australia is second to none when it comes to produce,” he says. “We have incredible country for farming beef, lamb and dairy. But we also have an amazing coastline with some of the best seafood.

“The great thing we have that many other countries don’t is that we have cold water from down around Tasmania for oysters, southern crays and abalone. But we also have the warm northern warm waters for reef fish — red emperor and coral trout are some of the best fish in the world.”

However you choose to interpret the sentiment, the day should be about “celebrating something uniquely Australian”.

“That could be some of the indigenous food that we use much more now than we used to; ingredients like kangaroo and some of the native plants and spices,” Matt says.

“But Australia was also built on the sheep’s back. Lamb is dear to my heart, partly because I own a lamb farm. So for me, you need to have a chop on the barbecue or roast some lamb on Australia Day.”

Matt has picked some of his favourite Australian foods, along with ideas for cooking them — keeping it simple, of course.

SOUTHERN LOBSTER

For a luxurious lunch, lobster is hard to beat. Matt suggests splitting the lobster in half (after killing humanely) before brushing with roasted garlic butter and cooking in its shell on the barbecue. To take it to the next level, serve with a bearnaise sauce with plenty of fresh tarragon.

BARBECUED FISH

Roast whole fish (snapper or other white-fleshed fish would be good) on the barbecue and serve with a simple salsa verde.

LAMB CUTLETS

They have a built-in handle, making perfect finger food for a stand-up, casual gathering, as well as a main meal. Grill cutlets and serve with a gremolata (chopped parsley, garlic and lemon rind). Or bring in more Middle Eastern flavours by scattering with dukkah and dipping into a tahini and yoghurt sauce.

Roasted lamb rack with quinoa salad from Matt Moran's Australian Food.

BARBECUED PRAWNS

Throwing a prawn on the barbie might be the Great Aussie Cliche but, when cooked carefully (in the shell if possible), the sweet, springy meat, with a hint of smoke, is hard to beat. Just add a squeeze of lemon, Matt says. Or use in a Thai-style salad with hot and sour dressing.

ROAST CHICKEN

A golden-skinned chook is perfect for a family gathering. Fill the cavity with lemon wedges and garlic cloves, knock up a stuffing of breadcrumbs, onion and sage, or, for a true Aussie experience, try beer can chicken, where the can has the dual function of holding the bird upright in the oven/barbecue and ensuring its meat stays moist.

BARBECUED STEAK

Rather than cooking individual steaks, Matt prefers to barbecue a thick (4cm) piece of sirloin and slice to serve. Accompany with a tarragon vinaigrette or a relish made with coriander, spring onion and pickled chillies.

BURGER

“You have to have beetroot in a good burger,” Matt says. And make sure the patty is made from mince with enough fat to ensure it stays juicy.

SALADS

Have at least one colourful, summery salad on the table. Try watermelon and feta (with pomegranate seeds, if available) or tomato with fresh burrata (cheese), balsamic and extra virgin olive oil.

PAVLOVA

While there might be some disagreement about its origins, Matt is in no doubt it should be the finale for an Australian Day spread. “People argue that it is from New Zealand but if that’s the case, we’ll take the pav and give them Russell Crowe back,” he jokes. Top the billowing meringue with raspberries, as in the recipe below, or perhaps passionfruit and mango.

PAVLOVA WITH RASPBERRIES

Serves: 10 Prep: 25 minutes Cook: 1 hour 45 minutes

Matt Moran's Australian Food: Pavlova with raspberries.

5 egg whites

½ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped

250g caster sugar

2 tsp cornflour (cornstarch)

1 tsp white wine vinegar

500ml thickened (whipping) cream

50g icing (confectioners’) sugar, sieved, plus extra to serve

375g raspberries

PREHEAT the oven to 120C. Trace a 20cm (8 inch) circle on a piece of baking paper with a pencil, using a cake tin as a template, then place the paper pencil-side down on a lightly oiled baking tray.

WHISK the egg whites, vanilla seeds and a pinch of salt in the clean bowl of an electric mixer for 2-3 minutes until soft peaks form, then gradually add the caster sugar, whisking until everything is well combined.

SIEVE in the cornflour, add the vinegar and whisk for 4-5 minutes until the egg whites are stiff and glossy peaks form.

SPOON the meringue into a high 20cm (8 inch) mound, using the circle as a guide, then slightly flatten the top and bake for 1½ -2 hours until crisp but not coloured. Turn off the oven and cool the pav completely in the oven (this will take 3-4 hours).

TO MAKE the filling, whisk the cream and icing sugar until soft peaks form, then add a third of the raspberries to the cream and whisk until the cream thickens and holds its shape.

TO SERVE, place the pavlova on a serving plate and pile the raspberry cream on top. Scatter with the remaining raspberries, dust with extra icing sugar and serve.

Matt Moran’s Australian Food: Coast + Country, Murdoch Books, RRP $45

Originally published as Chef Matt Moran’s tips for a relaxed Australia Day celebration