Dermatologist responds to 'concerning' tween skincare trend

After a video of Penelope Disick's skin routine went viral (yes, she is only 11), we had an expert weigh in on whether or not it's actually safe.

When I was 11, my Christmas list was as simple as the latest Barbie doll or a Razor Scooter. 

Fast forward to today, and it seems like the wish lists of tweens are more likely to feature Drunk Elephant skincare and $100 Sephora vouchers.

It's a sign of the times, perhaps, where playing with toys has been swapped out for perfecting an elaborate nine-step skincare routine.

But as much as we'd like to throw our hands in the air and yell, 'They're growing up too fast!' - it's still fascinating to delve into where this trend started, and of course ask ourselves before we judge - who, if anyone, is this harming?

We asked a Dermatologist to help us figure that last part out, but first, let's do a deep dive into the trend itself. 

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Pixie Curtis and her lavish skincare products. Image: Instagram

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Pixie Curtis leads the way down under for tween skincare

In Australia, Pixie Curtis (Roxy Jacenko's daughter and the entrepreneur behind Pixie's Bows), began setting the trend down under. 

In January this year, Jacenko took to Instagram to share a snap of her 11-year-old daughter's 'new year, new list' wishlist from high-end beauty retailer, Mecca. 

And it wasn't just a random selection of products, it was a carefully curated list, including things like 'Drunk Elephant Moisturiser', 'Sol-de-Janerio Spray ("any scent other than the light pink") and 'My regular face wash'. 

The list was titled 'Mecca Needs'. 

Understandably, the post was met with huge backlash, from people who didn't understand why someone her age would need such products, let alone expensive ones like these. 

"Whatever happened to Johnson’s kids’ range?" one follower wrote. Another said, "Isn't she still in primary school? WTF."

But there were also thousands of comments from knowing parents, who understood that this was a reflection of the current state of play for tweens everywhere. 

North West's seven-step, seven-second routine. Image: TikTok

Then came the Kardashian kids...

Around the same time, tween skincare started soaring in popularity globally thanks to none other than the trend-setting Kardashian kids. 

In January, nine-year-old North West shared a clip to her joint-TikTok account that she shares with her mum Kim Kardashian, showcasing her skincare routine to their 15 million followers. 

It included an exxy Drunk Elephant moisturiser (sensing a theme yet?), then a toner, serum and eye cream - all from SKYNN by Kim. 

People slammed the clip, and Kim for allowing it - saying it was "disturbing" and "unnecessary for a kid."

Meanwhile, Penelope Disick, 11, also made waves online when she shared her skincare regimen, complete with - you guessed it - more Drunk Elephant products. 

In the video, which was posted to her and mum Kourtney's joint account in January, Disick walked her followers through her step-by-step everyday routine. 

It also included moisturiser from Jessica Alba's Honest company, as well as Dior and Charlotte Tilbury products. 

Penelope Disick's skincare routine included Drunk Elephant and Dior products. Image: TikTok

The internet weighed in with their thoughts

The internet had plenty to say about it. 

"Isn't Penelope way too young for such an extensive skincare and makeup routine?" someone wrote.

"When I was 10, it was a good day if I just washed my hands with soap," one person shared.

"I didn’t start having a skincare routine until I was 18-19 years old. I would wash my face and moisturise when needed. Maybe I’m a late bloomer but her skin care is more extensive than mine, and I’m in my mid-20s now," someone else responded.

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So, is skincare safe and/or useful for tweens? Dermatologist reacts 

All these videos, plus all the millions of spin-off ones, all have a lot in common. 

First, they follow the 'GRWM' (get ready with me) format - a candid, instructional-style video, aimed to influence. Secondly, they all feature products with hefty price tags. 

And thirdly, and maybe the most concerning - many of the products used are specifically formulated to address signs of ageing, like fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and discolouration. 

According to Dr Liz from Northern Sydney Dermatology and Laser, "There's no major harm in using these anti-ageing products, but of course, they're not at all necessary for kids of this age."

She also adds that they "could irritate the skin" so it's best to steer clear (until you actually need them). 

"All tweens need is a good soap-free cleanser and moisturiser, because your skin does everything it's meant to at that age.

"It's young, it's beautiful - there's no need to put anything more onto it."

Dr. Liz adds an important note, emphasising that if your tween is experiencing specific skin concerns, like dermatitis, it's wise to consult a Dermatologist. In such cases, they might require specialised skincare products tailored to their needs.

Originally published as Dermatologist responds to 'concerning' tween skincare trend