I tried the popular Cosmelan face peel for mums with stubborn pigmentation

It’s definitely NOT for the faint-hearted but my skin is brand new again!

6 min read

November 1, 2023 - 12:05PM

Removing hormonal pigmentation with cosmelean

Lifestyle

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Pregnancy. It might give you that ‘glow’ that people rave about, but something else that expecting mums - and even mums who had their babies over 10 years ago like me - experience is hormonal pigmentation.

Yes, that uneven skin tone that not only makes you look like you’ve had 15 years in the sun overnight and adds to that overall sleep-deprived look but also makes you look like you’ve had a massive acne breakout.

What is hormonal pigmentation?

Otherwise known as Melasma, hormonal pigmentation is the gift we’re given as women who can bear children. It is commonly seen in women and appears on the skin as uneven patches of brown or darker skin shades and spots. You’ll find it more obvious in warmer months on the forehead, cheeks, upper lip, chin and nose areas - and in my case, can look like you’ve got ongoing acne.

When visiting Contour Clinics to finally address my pigmentation concerns, I was told immediately that I was just one of the "many mums" out there with uneven skin tone due to Melasma.

"It is caused mainly by pregnancy but it can also be caused by a hormonal imbalance, contraceptive pills, or other medications," my clinician Tanae Fanning explained.

"It’s very common - the most common treatments for Cosmelan have come from people with melasma pigmentation and the majority of the time is from pregnancy."

While it’s common in those with darker skin tones, pregnant women and mums in general, it can pop up on anyone. It is considered one of the most complained about skin issues in women between the ages of 25-45 and is usually removed with a serious cosmetic approach like laser therapy, IPL, microdermabrasion, or a Cosmelan peel - which is what I signed up for given the popularity in recent years.

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Applying the cosmelan peel in clinic before the 8 hour wait to remove it begins. Images: Leah Goulis / Kidspot

What is a Cosmelan peel?

If you suffer from melasma or an uneven complexion, chances are you’ve heard of Cosmelan before. It treats the most stubborn skin pigmentation and is usually recommended to those who have tried all of the things to try and even up their skin tone.

"It’s definitely a trend now because a lot of people didn’t realise they can remove hormonal pigmentation," Tanae shares.

"Cosmelan is designed to remove exactly this."

The procedure is a minimally invasive treatment where a clinician will apply a chemical peel mask in clinic, which is left on between 8-12 hours depending on what is recommended for your skin, and then continues with an at-home routine using Cosmelan creams.

The two-step peel is created with kojic acid, which inhibits the growth of melanin in your skin - the hero responsible for your pigmentation and uneven skin tone.

According to Contour Clinic’s website, “There is minimal pain with the Cosmelan treatment and results are seen in 1 week with continuous improvements out to 6 months.”

And now this is where I will step in and say - “NAH-UHH!!!!”

What happens during a Cosmelan peel?

Given my sensitive skin, I was given a ‘test peel’ on my skin to ensure I wouldn’t react negatively to the big kahuna.

All was fine and I was able to get the Cosmelan mask applied with no issues. And yes, the site is correct in saying that the mask itself when applied is not painful at all. It's just your regular mask except you leave it on for much longer.

After eight hours (and two glasses of wine while waiting) it was a relief to take the mask off and finally see if the peel had worked its magic.

While I was warned about other clients blowing up in the face, I had no reactions. And the Cosmelan procedure was quick to get the job done. Here’s a quick rundown on how things went down - and all very typical of what to expect:

DAY 1: Red, hot, slightly swollen around the upper cheeks and eyes. Feels like I was at the beach all day the day before with no sunblock. You begin with the second step of the treatment, applying the creams given to you in clinic.

DAY 2: Red, hot, tight. That sunburn feeling REALLY setting in now.

DAY 3: Introduce the Cosmelan 2 cream into your skincare routine. Peeling begins.

DAY 3-6: Peeling is well and truly underway and most shedding is happening around the lower half of the face because that’s where the most movement is. It’s VERY dry, slightly red, and uncomfortable but also embarrassing having to see people like that when you’re feeling so sore already.

DAY 7: Cold sore. If you’re prone to them, ask your clinician about the best steps for you because you can’t put anything on it! Shedding continues.

I looked like Colonel Sanders during the peeling phase. Image: Leah Goulis / Kidspot

Once the first shed is done, you feel cocky. You can see a bit of your end result coming through and think you’re done. WRONG!

This is where it was most painful for me.

The second shed is brutal and your skin is so tight and dry and sore that the best way to describe it is someone giving you a Chinese burn all over your face. I couldn’t open my mouth wide enough to eat, talking was painful and I slept with a wet towel on my face and a fan blowing directly in my direction for two nights.

It is recommended during these first two weeks that you head back into the clinic for an LED light and review and I kept to my appointments but when things got unbearable, I was able to get another review of my skin and voice my concerns.

We agreed to give my skin some extra time to heal before continuing with the at-home routine using the creams. I was warned that it might affect my end results, but when your skin is cracking around your mouth and the pain is too much, there really is no alternative. I went home with a face smothered in Vaseline and stayed that way for two days before continuing on with the creams again when the peeling settled down.

Before a cosmelan peel (left) and 1 month post peel (right). Images: Leah Goulis

What you need to know before getting a Cosmelan peel done

Let’s be very clear here - this peel is not for the faint-hearted. If you have serious issues with pigmentation, consider it, but know what you’re getting yourself into. I would definitely recommend timing your peel for winter and also taking some time off work.

If your pigmentation is only mild, I would speak to your skincare expert about all of your options. If you can get the job done with another treatment with less downtime, I'd consider that first.

Consider other options if you:

Have only mild pigmentation
Are prone to cold sores
Have allergies
Have a low pain threshold
Want instant results with little downtime

The post-peel glow is real. Image: Leah Goulis / Kidspot

So, did Cosmelan work?

According to my clinician, "results can be seen from 1-2 weeks but full results will be seen at 3 months," so I anxiously made my way through the three months to see what my results would be.

While you can spot a little bit of pigment that has been removed after initial redness and peeling has settled in the first week, I found that my skin had that flawless look at around the one-month mark. Some friends even commented that my skin almost looked airbrushed, and I agreed. I was glowing and revelling in the fact that I didn't have to wear ANY make-up each day.

Now, as I write this, we're at the three-month mark and I can confirm that the peel didn't remove all of the melasma that I had. My forehead still is a little uneven and some of the dark spots around my cheeks are still evident. And while it's nowhere near as bad as it was before I stepped foot into the clinic, I am still wearing a BB cream from time to time, so scrap that idea of not having to wear make-up ever after having this peel.

If you're considering the same treatment, speak to a skincare expert for advice and best treatments for your skin (and sanity!)