Fringe Taste Test 2019: Garden of Unearthly Delights

Which meals are worth the queue at the Garden of Unearthly Delights? Here’s the verdict from our team of reviewers, who have sampled almost every food stall at this year’s Fringe.

• Fringe Taste Test Part 2: Gluttony and the RCC
• Fringe Adviser: Every show and all our reviews

Which meals are worth the queue at the Garden of Unearthly Delights? Here’s the verdict from our team of reviewers, who have sampled almost every food stall at this year’s Fringe.

Banana and caramel poffertje at Adelaide's Famous Poffertjes Stall.

ADELAIDE’S FAMOUS POFFERTJES STALL

Poffertjes, $12

This looks stunning, and who wouldn’t want a small, fluffy Dutch pancake (poffertje) and waffles post show with a beer? The end product, albeit formulaic, is top notch, if seriously rich, banana and caramel with the waffles, sour cream elsewhere. But the service, OMG, ponderous and school canteen-esque from a couple of “chefs” who, on a quiet night, had two orders and forgot one. Hmmm.

Rating: ***

Something else: Serve of four oliebollen (a Dutch doughnut), $8.

Beyond India curry combo.

BEYOND INDIA

Curry combo, $16

Beyond India has provided a great feed in previous years but this is a little underwhelming. The curries are great and at $16 for a combo plate — in this case butter chicken and lamb rogan josh — not bad value. The meat is succulent and both sauces fragrant and nicely balanced. There are two papadams to boot. It’s in the sides where things fall over. Cheese naan ($4.50), while massive is served almost cool with the cheese centre not hot and melty, but luke warm and solid. At that price it needs to be about half as big again.

Rating: ***

Something else: Mango lassi, $5, is perhaps a little on the small side.

KING CREOLE

Four pieces of southern fried chicken, jalapeno slaw and ranch dressing, $18

These four thick pieces of crispy chicken are incredibly satisfying, tender and juicy. Sitting crossed-legged on the ground in the packed Garden, it’s an easy-to-eat dish, as we dip each piece in ranch. The bitter slaw is the only let-down: a few bites are more than enough. A bit pricey for the quantity, but the quality makes it almost justified.

Rating: ****

Something else: Southern fried chicken burger with cheese, slaw and ranch for $15.

Corn from Corn Star.

CORN STAR CART

BBQ corn, $6

You won’t miss this one as the cart is positioned in the middle of the Garden and the smell of the butter will have you walking in that direction anyway. There’s three flavours that you can choose from that they will generously smother on the corn with what looks like a paintbrush. The chilli butter flavour is a winner with a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

Rating: ****

Something else: Butter or garlic butter, $6.

DONUT DINER CART

Raspberry jam doughnut, $5

This cute, small, diner style cart has a simple menu — just popcorn and two types of doughnuts. Hot cinnamon donuts, 6 for $10, is its only signage, leaving inquiries about the raspberry jam doughnuts on display. Vegan-friendly, these taste fresh, sprinkled with sugar but not sickly sweet. There’s a large clump of jam in the middle, which could be dispersed better. Definitely satisfies those midnight-snack cravings after a late show.

Rating: ****

Something else: Bring a friend or two for hot cinnamon doughnuts, 6 for $10.

Pesto gnocchi from That Arancini Guy.

THAT ARANCINI GUY ITALIAN KITCHEN & PATISSERIE

Pesto gnocchi, $15

It feels wrong giving the risotto balls a miss when the stall is called That Arancini Guy, but the pesto gnocchi is simply too hard to resist — and as it turns out, a sacrifice worth making. The deliciously light potato dumplings, slightly golden from a toss in the pan, are served with just the right amount of chunky pesto and topped with a sprinkle of parmesan and parsley.

Rating: ****

Something else: Risotto balls (four flavours to choose from), four for $12.

Seafood paella at Garden of Unearthly Delights

PAELLA TRUCK

Seafood Paella, $17

Large paella pans sizzle away behind Melbourne Paella Company’s counter. Staff scoop the hearty Spanish fare straight from the pan to recyclable (love-heart shaped) bowls so it’s still hot by the time you eat it. Serving sizes are generous; a few prawns (tail on), calamari, mussels, fire-roasted red capsicum, smoked paprika, peas, and a decent whack of herbs. A decent representation of the Spanish rice dish — served fast for swift scoffing between shows.

Rating: ****

Something else: Crispy cinnamon-dusted churros with chocolate sauce. Gluten-free (like the paella).

Torta rustica at Francesco's Venetian Soul Food.

FRANCESCO’S VENETIAN SOUL FOOD

Torta Rustica, $12

It’s not about brash flavours — northern Italian cuisine is a little more subtle and sophisticated. The torta is a bit like a quiche but beautifully light and full of fresh herbs, tomato and rosemary on the top. This stall has plenty of vego and vegan options, so the torta and risotto ($15) come with fresh salad — a riot of festival colour and well dressed.

Rating: ****

Something else: Tasting plate, $20.

GELATISSIMO

Two scoops in a cone, $8

Well, it’s Gelatissimo, innit? You all know what you’re getting here, every Adelaide Fringe-dweller has at some point walked Rundle St dripping everywhere on a hot summer’s day. The flavours are familiar but there’s only 13 to choose from. Rich chocolate and tangy passionfruit is a superb combination that hits the sweet spot between refreshing and indulgent.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: Want more choice? Wander up Rundle St to the Gelatissimo shop.

THE GREEK PALACE (also at Gluttony)

Meze plate, $17

The lamb and chicken yiros has received rave reviews but we were there with half an hour to kill before the show. So the meze plate is perfect to share with a drink. It’s six home made dolmades on salad, freshly grilled haloumi and warm bread, tzatziki and hummus. There’s plenty for two and while it could have done with a squeeze of lemon, it was a good place to start.

Rating: ***1/2

Something else: Come back at the end and try the loukoumades, honey puffs, for $10.

Tokyo fried chicken with coleslaw and pickled veg.

GYOZA RECORDS

Tokyo fried chicken with coleslaw and pickled veg, $18

This year, Gyoza Records has added tempura vegetable chips; Tokyo fried chicken; edamame and Buddha salad (tofu, noodles and veg) to the dumpling menu. “Tokyo fried chicken” is a made-up dish — so there’s no “authentic TFC”. You get a generous serve of vaguely spiced, marinated chicken of middling quality drizzled with Kewpie, impressive pickled veg and coleslaw. Service can be a tad slow.

Rating: ***

Something else: Want to go gyoza? The pork and chives dumplings, $12, team tasty pork with sublimely salty soy.

CUBAN CARLOS STALL

Cuban sandwich, $16

Maybe working up an appetite is part of the plan. It took two loops of the Garden to find this new offering, the signage at waist height wholly unhelpful. The signature dish, a sandwich, was passable if a little out of the ordinary, a Caribbean pork and cheese toastie in effect. The service was exceptional though, friendly, on the ball and everything the meal wasn’t.

Rating: **1/2

Something else: Avoid the veggie rice bowl (sweet potato and black bean), beautiful presentation masking the bland.

Ozzie Gözleme’S Spicy lamb stuffed pastry.

OZZIE GÖZLEME

Spiced lamb gözleme, $16

Barbecued Turkish pastries made with love. For carnivores, minced lamb (the secret is in the spice), local spinach, fresh herbs, and melted cheese encased in a traditional grilled pastry is the ticket. The filling is plentiful and the dough is light. It comes with a side of lemon and chilli (if you want it). A must-try — best shared.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: For veggies there’s vegetarian ($15) or cheese and mushroom ($14).

Bao Brothers pork and tofu bao.

BAO BROTHERS

Notorious P.I.G and T.W.A baos, $7 each

Bao Brothers debuted at last year’s Fringe and had such a good time, they opted to come back for seconds. The “notorious pig” is served with a generous portion of pork (with a great meat to fat ratio), pickled cucumber, hoisin, kewpie mayo, coriander and finished with plenty of yummy peanut praline. The T.W. A (tofu with attitude) has loads of flavour — the addition of pickled ginger a winner — but the slice of crumbed tofu was maybe a little too big.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: Tater tots with tom yum mayo, chilli, coriander and lime, $10.

CARO CLUB

Cheeseburger, $16

American diner-style burger fare at its best. The cheeseburger is everything you want a cheeseburger to be: a juicy meat patty with cheese, lettuce, ketchup, special sauce and, of course, a tart pickle to round it all out. Despite being very messy, every mouthful is met with a satisfied groan. The same can be said for the fried chicken burger, although it is spicier given the accompanying Memphis sauce.

Rating: ****1/2

Something Else: Try the Tex Mex pork but be quick! It is sold out when we get there.

Parmesan chicken nuggets.

\

MOTHERLODE NUGGETERIA

Parmesan Chicken Nuggets, $15, plus $4 for chips

The newest addition to the Garden is serving nuggets in ways that you have probably never tried. Like the parmesan chicken nuggets. It’s almost like a pregnant craving combo — fried buttermilk chicken nuggets covered in a spicy parmesan seasoning, pink garlic mayo and cornichons (pickled mini cucumbers) sitting on a bed of crispy chips. The nuggets don’t have that fried crunch but the combo is still pretty delicious.

Rating: ***

Something else: Soft cauliflower coated in a crispy batter that has an optimal crunch factor, served with a spicy dipping sauce. Available vegetarian or vegan.

Seitan Salad from Veggie Galley.

THE VEGGIE GALLEY

Savoury Seitan salad, $15

Ahoy me hearties, a healthy meal during Adelaide Fringe is possible. The veggie-packed menu (and lovely staff) at this pirate-themed stall attracts all the performers to the (Garden) yard. The Savoury Seitan (mock meat — a bit like duck) is smoky and flavour-packed. Fresh leafy greens, shredded beetroot, carrot, toasted sunflower seeds and alfalfa sprouts Add the pirate ship-made hot sauce if you dare. All options are available as a salad or burger — vegan if requested.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: Sexy satay tempeh burger ($15) with a side of sweet potato chips.

PIGS ON FIRE

Meat special, $24

My fellow carnivores, rejoice! — here’s a meal with 325g of meat. Crunchy crackling, roasted ham, pulled pork, deliciously tender pork belly, beer sausage, bitey Amsterdam pickles, tasty Dutch haggis that mops up well with a slice of bread. Could have done with an extra piece or two. Bring your appetite or a friend to polish this off. With the added theatrics of the large spit roast, this place is popular — with a long line up and wait, and a large, filled seating area.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: Roasted Dutch style ham with barbecue vegies, summer salad and apple sauce, $19.

Reviews: Simon Wilkinson, Gordon Knight, Tom Bowden, Roseanna Daziani, Robyn Douglass, Katelin Nelligan, Andrew O’Grady, Michael Owen-Brown, Katie Spain, Richard Evans, Brooke Treloar, Tara Nash, Roxanne Wilson.