Fringe food reviews 2019: Gluttony and RCC Fringe’s Chow Town

The choices of food at the major venues of the Adelaide Fringe are almost as varied as the acts you can see. But what’s the best value for money and where can you find it?

Food vendors Luigi Di Costanzo from Luigi's Delicatessen and Maria Viojan from Filipino Project with performer Hannah Cryle from Pot Party Throwdown and Talia Monaghan from Frolic and Follies. Picture: Naomi Jellicoe

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The choices of food at the major venues of the Adelaide Fringe are almost as varied as the acts you can see. But what’s the best value for money and where can you find it?

Chef Kim's K chicken and K fried squid.

Gluttony

CHEF KIM K-CHICKEN

K-Fried Squid, $12

Chef Kim Korean’s fine dining experience in a festival snack pack — yes please! Why go to Hazelwood Park’s acclaimed restaurant when you can get your Korean fix in the garden?

The fried squid is great — a refreshing take on the traditional salt-and-pepper recipe, and it’s a decent serving of meaty, lightly battered chunks. If seafood’s not your thing, there are a bunch of chicken options, but it’s hard to go past the kimchi pancakes. At $10, it’s a satisfying tray of spicy fritters that are so, so moreish!

Rating: ****

Something else: Both of these dishes pack a kick, so you’ll want to wash them down with a watermelon juice ($8).

Greek Palace’s AB and Haloumi yiros

GREEK PALACE (also at GOUD)

AB, $18; Haloumi yiros, $13

It feels sacrilegious to be scoffing an AB sober at 6pm rather than at 1am with a bellyful of booze. This mainstay of post-midnight munchies is a plate of yiros meat, chips, tzatziki and tomato sauce. Here it’s pretty damn enjoyable, the lamb and chicken you’d expect from a typical yiros joint, crispy chips and plenty of tzatziki with a refreshing cucumber tang. A haloumi yiros provides some much-needed salad and is a lighter alternative than a meat yiros. Pity more sauce options weren’t apparent to spice it up a little.

Rating: ***1/2

Something else: Mmm, roast pig on the spit from 7pm.

Vera Pizza Oztalia pizza bianca.

VERA PIZZA OZTALIA

Bianca, $18

Love a no-thrills, wood oven-fired pizza? Then look no further than Vera Pizza Oztalia from the team behind McLaren Vale’s Pizzateca. Skilled pizzaiolo use proper sugo (sauce) and dough stretched to order. The first mouthful of the Bianca leaves a string of mozzarella like elastic from my mouth to the crust, building anticipation with each slice. The classic pairing of cheese and basil, mixed with garlic, mushrooms and a hint of truffle oil, only leaves you wanting more.

Rating: ****

Something else: Try the lemon granita for a refreshing drink $6.

Spaghetti crab at Luigi Delicatessen.

LUIGI DELICATESSEN

Spaghetti crab, $16

The little Flinders St cafe, and its exuberant owner, have a huge following and this Fringe stall promises more of the same. Pastas are cooked to order in a frying pan, meaning it can take some time if they are busy but everything is fresh. The crab sauce will suit those who like it heavy and rich, the shredded meat scooped out of a plastic container, then stirred with tomato passata and a big pour of cream, before the spaghetti goes in. It’s a substantial serve that you may want to share. Opting for chilli is recommended.

Rating: ***1/2

Something else: Try the Mediterranean or quinoa salads (both $12) for a lighter option.

Toly Vietnamese bao buns

TOLY VIETNAMESE

Bao, 3 for $18

A trio of bao for $18 makes for a sensational Asian street meal. There are five variations — and a choice of pork BBQ, pork belly with crackling and lemongrass chicken didn’t disappoint, each boasting a distinctive taste and texture. The soft bao buns are fluffy and fresh, generously packed with ingredients and bursting with fresh flavours like coriander. A generous dollop of creamy sauce makes for a pleasingly messy eating experience.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: Eight chicken, pork or shiitake mushroom dumplings, $12.

Filipino Project’s lemongrass BBQ chicken

THE FILIPINO PROJECT

Lemongrass BBQ Chicken, $15

OK, so this Filipino mang inasal chicken isn’t going to evoke memories of street dining in Bacolod. It’s light on marination and chilli, and served without soy. But it’s tasty chicken that’s well barbecued with a fresh atchara (raw papaya) salad and nice rice. Staff are friendly, serves are generous. It’s a Fringe-friendly take on
mang inasal.

Rating: ****

Something else: Still hungry? Sweet Filipino pork ribs at $16 are more-ish. Vegans and gluten-free diners can opt for BBQ Tofu.

FLAT IRON TOASTIE SHOP

Mushroom Melt, $12

It’s almost midnight on Sunday in Adelaide and we’re eating a gourmet cheese toastie. It must be Fringe. Flat Iron Toastie Shop serves up truly diverse flavours from the griddle. Paying $12 for a toastie might seem steep, but Mushroom Melt is mad! You can really taste the thyme marinade in the mushroom pieces and it is made with decent cheese. Vegan and gluten free options available.

Rating: ***1/2

Something else: Smashed roast pumpkin, cheese, peppers, rocket, jalapeño, $12.

Hubba Hubba Humus’ Hubba Heaven.

HUBBA HUBBA HUMMUS

Hubba Heaven, $14

“Spreading hummus love,” reads the sign out front and a generous splodge of silken chickpea blend is indeed spread over the base of each plate at this stall. The Hubba Heaven is as colourful as a Fringe drag cabaret, with the iridescent purple of pickled cabbage, golden spiced cauli, paprika-sprinkled egg, cucumber and tomato salad, and deep brown falafel. Essentially all the sides on offer together in one dish, the trick is to get a little bit of everything — and plenty of hummus, of course — wrapped in a pita triangle. Hubba, hubba, hubba.

Rating: ****

Something else: Hummus B’Lahmeh with spiced lamb and pomegranate, $12 (half), $15 (huge).

Fried ice cream sandwich at Shibui dessert bar.

SHIBUI DESSERT BAR

Fried ice cream sandwich, $10

If you’re not the type to bother with main courses when there is dessert around, come straight in. Two fried bao buns are topped with soft serve ice cream, choc fudge and smashed honeycomb — talk about a sweet hit. They offer two spoons — that might be handy as these are filling enough to share.

Rating: ***

Something else: More sweet nothings, try a Nutella panna cotta for $10.

Barossa Valley ice cream

BAROSSA VALLEY ICE CREAM

Two scoops in a cup, $10

This Barossa Valley artisan ice cream has a very clean, organic taste but sometimes lacks a little in texture and colour. Many will appreciate the lack of artificial colouring but I found strawberry’s grey-purple shade unappealing — although the natural taste of strawberry cut through nicely. Salted caramel was rich and yummy but vanilla bean with mulberry stripe was a little thin and underwhelming. The real wow factor is licorice — jet black with a rich, creamy texture that accentuates a distinct but not overwhelming licorice flavour.

Rating: ***1/2

Something else: Uses natural ingredients sourced from the Barossa.

Ragini's coconut beef rice with mango.

RAGINI’S SPICE

Coconut beef rice with mango, $18; Naan, $4-$6

This Indian curry comes in a generous serving that could almost serve two people. Big chunks of beef of variable tenderness and quality sit in a sauce that packs a pleasant punch. There’s nice spice complexity but, once you’re down into the rice, the sauce becomes a little oily rather than fully delivering on the creamy promise of coconut. Plain and garlic naan bread is a delicious highlight, perfectly cooked right on the cusp of a crispy exterior and chewy interior.

Rating: ***

Something else: Naanchos — because we need Indian-Mexican fusion cuisine, $16.

MR DOUGHNUTS

Five cinnamon doughnuts, $7

Cinnamon doughnuts are a festival must-have, but this batch sadly doesn’t hit the mark. Stodgy, heavy dough that is crispy only on one side suggests these doughnuts could have done with more cooking. A little more cinnamon sugar wouldn’t have gone astray either.

Rating: *1/2

Something else: Try the jam-filled doughnuts (three for $7).

Are You Feeling Corny, corn on the cob.

ARE YOU FEELING CORNY

Corn on the cob (with chicken salt), $6

Another one for vegans (and gluten free Fringe-goers). There’s no branding above this humble stall’s hotplate so follow your nose — the smell of popcorn leads the way. The corn is hot, beautifully charred and dusted with a decent amount of (vegan) chicken salt. Tell them to go easy on the condiments if you’re watching your blood pressure.

Rating: ****

Something else: Other flavours include sweet beetroot, smoky paprika and Mexican chilli.

Beef brisket burger from Jerry's Smokehouse.

JERRY’S SMOKEHOUSE

Beef brisket burger, $17

Succulent, peppery beef that’s been slow smoked for 12 hours is smothered on to a crunchy roll. The accompanying tomato relish gives the burger a hint of sweetness, while the homemade pickles are delightfully tangy. As an added bonus, you get a side serve of crunchy sweet potato crisps.

Rating: ****

Something else: Try the loaded nachos with pulled pork (med $10, large $16).

Kottu at Soza's Sri Lankan.

SOZA’S SRI LANKAN

Chicken kottu, $15

In Thailand, you have pad thai, in China you have fried rice, in America you have hamburgers — and in Sri Lanka kottu is the fast food of choice. Traditionally, day-old roti bread is chopped up into pieces, mixed with scrambled eggs, vegetables, aromatic spices and your choice of protein. Having tried many of these in their country of origin, Soza’s version hits the mark. A delicious street food snack that’s lightly spiced and perfect for festival goers.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: Try the devilled chicken with rice ($15), another Sri Lankan specialty.

RCC Fringe Chow Town

The genteel gardens of Adelaide Uni are just the place for a royal club, and there are plenty of big tables at RCC’s Chow Town to settle down at with your plateful.

Chicken laksa from Sit Lo.

SIT LO

Chicken laksa, $16

A big bowl of chicken laksa from Sit Lo is just the ticket on a warm summer night ¬ well balanced chilli and coconut milk make this a comfortable dinner. Plenty of chicken, egg and noodles here, but it could have done with some more vegies for our taste.

Rating: ***

Something else: Chicken bao bun, two for $13, looks like good value.

+82 GOGI

Korean Fried Chicken with Sweet Chilli Sauce or Garlic Soy, $10

Hungry but set to see a show? Gogi has the answer. Its Korean fried chicken is served nugget sized in a paper cup. The chicken has a nice bit of spice and the chilli sauce heat lingers, but there’s a little too much batter which makes the pieces less crispy. At $10 for a small cup it’s a stretch to say this is good value.

Rating: ***

Something else: The vegan nugget, also $10, is tasty and crisper than the chook.

Carnivore’s rib burger

CARNIVORE

Rib Burger, $16

Start your Fringe night right with a Rib Burger, a guaranteed tummy filler! That barbecue smell filling your nostrils as you approach Chow Town? That’s Carnivore’s giant hanging grill. The sizeable burger feels good in the hands and doesn’t slide apart. Some ’slaw falls out, but it’s just ’slaw so who cares?

The tender marinated meat is the exact smoky BBQ dreamboat you’d expect it to be. All ingredients fresh, crowned with two tasty onion rings. Flame emoji.

Rating: *****

Something else: Mega Meats with Pork Ribs and Buffalo Wings served with ’slaw, onion rings and pickles, $25.

RCC at the Adelaide fringe (Adelaide Uni), Pan & Vine Pizza — slice of the margherita

PAN & VINE PIZZA

Margherita pizza, $15

Pizza is pizza, right? Not. This wood oven is absolutely firing, and our margherita pizza takes just minutes — it’s light and crisp with a slightly charred base. The tomatoes on top are so fresh they splatter when you bite, and the mozzarella and basil finish it off. There’s enough to share but you won’t want to.

Rating: ****1/2

Something else: Come back for the Arty: mushrooms, truffle oil and artichoke with mozzarella, $17.

Reviews: Simon Wilkinson, Gordon Knight, Robyn Douglass, Roxanne Wilson, Katelin Nelligan, Michael Owen-Brown, Andrew O’Grady, Roseanna Daziani, Katie Spain, Tom Bowden, Richard Evans, Brooke Treloar, Tara Nash