World Cup snacks for watching the Socceroos
FOLLOW the fortunes of the Socceroos in the World Cup while enjoying snacks inspired by their opponents from around the globe, writes SIMON WILKINSON
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WHEN you settle in on the couch over the next few weeks and switch on a match of soccer’s World Cup, you will be joining an estimated audience of 3.5 billion, making it easily the most-watched sporting event on the planet.
The Socceroos, who open their campaign against France on Saturday, may require a Steven Bradbury-style miracle to advance deep into the finals, let alone win the thing. But that shouldn’t stop people getting into the spirit and feeling part of a global community who live and breathe the sport they call football.
Each of Australia’s opponents – France, Denmark and Peru – has a distinct culinary tradition that can be found in Adelaide. Then there is the host, Russia, where locals are preparing for an event the likes of which many of them won’t have seen before.
“It is getting quite hectic over there and everyone is getting ready,” says Roman Tazhdynov, who runs city bar Red October with partner Marina Tazhdynova. “Judging by my friends in hospitality, everyone is excited..”
Rather than watching on a television at home, the Russian culture for big games is to head out to a sports bar, Marina says.
“The idea of some of our snacks comes from there,” she says. “If you don’t go to the stadium then you go to a sports bar and sit in a big group and watch the match.”
The drink of choice is beer – not vodka. “Vodka is more a weekend drink,” Marina says. “Watching a game of footy, people will drink mostly beer.”
“The whole idea is you eat something salty to make you thirsty,” Roman adds, “so you drink beer that makes you hungry so you want something to eat. It’s a circle.”
At Red October, chef Sam Clarkson coats whitebait in potato starch and fries until crisp and golden, before dusting with salt and vinegar powder.
The inspiration for the dish comes from Roman’s childhood in Siberia and a snack made by his mum. “In Siberia they usually fish with a net and the big fish they catch are roasted,” he says. “But the little fish are shallow-fried in some oil. Mums would hand them out to random kids who were playing …as a snack.”
Dumplings are also essential. “In Russia, and all the post-Soviet countries, there is a massive variety of dumplings, from small ravioli styles up to big ones that need to steam for an hour to cook,” Marina says.
Red October serves two types: the deep-fried chebureki, filled with pork and sauerkraut, that are a Russian street food; and the steamed khinkali from Georgia, that are filled with potato and cheese.
To buy frozen dumplings, as well as other Russian staples, Roman and Marina recommend Mozaika at 19 North Tce, Hackney.
Red October, 22 Gilbert Pl, city, 8212 2938, redoctober.bar
FRANCE
Australia v France,
Saturday, 7.30pm
What will people in France be eating during the World Cup? Dominique Lentz from La Buvette Drinkery is honest. “If you are at home,” he says, “it will be pizza, burgers and beer and wine. The idea of the French eating foie gras – it is
a myth.”
Of course, there are exceptions, he says. People will gather before the game and have a plate of charcuterie and a glass of wine, pastis or mistelle (a mix of fruit juice and spirit).
“If you go to a friend who is passionate about culinary skills, maybe they will cook boeuf bourguignon or a cassoulet. But if it is a last minute thing it will be pizza. And if we go out to a bar there is no food. It’s just to drink and have a good time.”
That’s in Paris. In Adelaide, La Buvette has plans to keep patrons well fed while it screens the game on Saturday night.
Dominique says the kitchen will be turning out sirloin steak frites, escargot and croque monsieur made with artisan bread, ham off the bone and gruyere cheese.
“And we’ve come up with a cheeky little number … a petit foie gras burger,” he adds. It’s a pan-seared piece of duck foie gras served in a brioche bun with mustard sauce and pickles.
Dominique suggests eating it with a glass of riesling or gewurztraminer from Alsace – or a Kronenbourg 1664 beer, a $6 special for the night.
“It’s hard to choose who I want to win,” Dominique laughs. “My heart says France but Australia would be good for business. Either way it’s going to be a good night.”
La Buvette, 27 Gresham St, city, 8410 8170, labuvettedrinkery.com.au
DENMARK
Australia v Denmark,
Thursday, June 21, 9.30pm
The Danes will be painting the town red as they watch their team in Russia. Red is the national colour – and the colour of the “polse” or sausage in the hotdogs that are the country’s traditional football snack.
“We haven’t been to the last two World Cups and even when we aren’t there it is a lot of fun to watch,” says Dan Hemmingsen, from A Hereford Beefstouw.
“When we do go it becomes more or less a national party. People tend to gather more with family and friends at home.”
Dan, who grew up in Copenhagen, explains that, while a Danish hotdog begins with a standard red-skinned pork sausage, the accompaniments should include sweet mustard, ketchup, raw and crisp fried onion, and remoulade, a rich mayonnaise with chopped pickles. “That is classic football food,” Dan says.
Another option is “frikadellar”, a fried pork meatball with a tangy sweet/sour sauce that you will find on the menu at A Hereford Beefstouw, the steak house chain that started in Denmark before expanding around the world – including to Adelaide where it is co-owned by beef farmer Tim Burvill.
The beverage of choice will undoubtedly be beer, Dan says, more likely the sports-aligned Carlsberg than Copenhagen’s other main brew, Tuborg.
“Kids will have a raspberry (red) soda – the colour makes it a bit nationalistic.”
A Hereford Beefstouw, 143 Hutt St, city, 8232 6868, beefstouw.com
PERU
Australia v Peru,
Tuesday, June 26, 11.30pm
It has been 36 long years since Peru last qualified for the World Cup – and its people will be making the most of this opportunity.
Renzo Canepa, co-owner and chef at Adelaide’s only Peruvian restaurant, Mestizo, went to New Zealand to watch his team win its way through to the tournament in Russia.
“When Peru plays, the whole nation stops,” he says. “Everyone finishes work early and there is no traffic. Everyone is watching the game.”
Renzo says a round of pisco sour, Peru’s national drink based on a brandy-like spirit, is a must to start. And there will also be plenty of beer.
Many people will cook a barbecue with marinated pork and chicken, potatoes and grilled “choclo”, the Peruvian corn on the cob .
Others will cure fish for ceviche or serve street-food style rolls of fried pork belly (or “chicharron”) with caramelised sweet potato and a salsa. Or, for the adventurous, try “anticuchos”, little skewers of beef heart cooked on a grill.
“It’s an unusual cut but people get a (pleasant) surprise when they try it at Mestizo,” Renzo says.
Mestizo, 114 Partridge St, Glenelg South, 8294 0295, mestizococinaperuana.com.au
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