Two tasty reasons to flock to the Fleurieu
A takeaway meal comes with a bottle of local wine and plenty of goodwill at these two southern favourites, writes Simon Wilkinson
delicious SA
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The communal spirit and support networks that have helped make our wine regions such attractive places to visit are serving them well as they work through a lockdown double whammy.
With restaurants closed for traditional service and tastings banned at cellar doors, two of the biggest drawcards for these important tourist destinations are gone.
But there are still signs of life. In McLaren Vale and its coastal playground, for instance, two of the most esteemed establishments are open for business and getting great support from the local crowd.
In return, these businesses are doing their best to promote surrounding wineries and encourage customers to take a bottle home with them.
SALOPIAN INN
“So what kind of food does the Salopian Inn do,” asks the older boy. Then, as the dumplings, pork buns, battered garfish and lamb pie are laid out before him on a park bench at Willunga, he answers his own question: “It’s the food I like to eat.”
That is as neat a summary as any of the cooking of Karena Armstrong at the Salopian – and nothing has changed in lockdown mode.
Her remarkable menu for takeaway and delivery has more than 20 choices that all demand attention, encompassing both Salopian favourites and bespoke additions particularly suited to these times.
Karena’s pork and lemongrass dumplings in a black vinegar dressing reign supreme and are worth the drive alone. They could be the starting point for a feast of yum cha followed up by the buns, spring rolls, red-braised brisket in chilli caramel, and local mussels and pipis tossed in kingfish XO sauce.
Feeling more Euro? How about an autumn bounty of gnocchi, chestnuts, ricotta and pieces of roasted pumpkin with the texture of fudge? Or the pie, a handsome glazed dome of pastry packed with the meat stripped from braised lamb necks and partnered by an almond cream, green salsa, olives and intense jus?
The Salopian opened for takeaway the day after restaurants were forced to close, adapting as many of its existing dishes as possible to minimise wastage and make use of ingredients already purchased.
“We still have Salopian customers who want the stuff they know, like the dumplings and buns,” Karena says.
“The burger (beef, bacon, chilli jam) I had on years ago when we opened up and that has sold quite well.
“But demand has changed as the restrictions have gone on. At the start everyone wanted something deep fried – delicious came first, which I get. Now we are noticing the healthier, Salopian style of raw and fresh ingredients is what sells.”
As well as terrific support from regulars, Karena says they are seeing customers for the first time. “Locals will come up for a walk and buy a pork bun for $5. They come and say ‘hello’ and really enjoy it.”
McMurtrie Rd, McLaren Vale, 8323 8769,
salopian.com.au. Open daily for takeaway,
noon-7pm (noon-9pm Fri and Sat)
VICTORY HOTEL
It’s early on a Friday evening and both the Victory Hotel’s phones are ringing off the hook. In the kitchen, Patrick White and his team are going hammer and tongs filling a row of empty containers lined up on the bench.
After shutting completely for a few weeks, the Victory is back, serving takeaway dinners and bottles of wine from its inimitable cellar. And while the pub on the hill is usually filled with visitors who have driven from far and wide for the postcard views and terrific hospitality, now it is the locals who are benefitting the most.
Proprietor Doug Govan reports that from Thursday to Sunday each week, more than 500 meals are going out the door, with more than half of them heading to postcode 5174 – the community of Sellicks Beach – where a driver is making a constant stream of deliveries.
The popularity of the new service has taken Doug by surprise and helped lift spirits all round.
“It’s terrific for morale, not only for myself, also (wife) Nikki and our staff,” he says. “They are very grateful for getting the JobKeeper payment but also to get out of the house and continue working.
“I’m feeling really positive. We have electricity, insurance and interest we need to find money for. Without this, we would be quite a bit down financially.”
The Victory takeaway menu is essentially a list of pub classics, elevated by using the best produce from local land and seas.
Myponga Beach squid is coated in a punchy salt and pepper coating. King George whiting (from Kangaroo Island) comes battered, crumbed or grilled. Even the schnitzels are put together by highly rated Ellis Butchers in McLaren Vale.
The massaman curry is a big serve of extra-tender beef cubes in a well-balanced sauce, rice, roasted peanuts, greenery and flatbread wedges. For $15, it’s a steal.
While the cellar is open to choose from the full Victory collection in all its glory (look out for rarities from Burgundy and Champagne), a display of bottles upstairs focuses on local producers.
“McLaren Vale grenache, McLaren Vale shiraz… it’s happy days,” Doug says.
Main South Rd, Sellicks Hill, 8556 3083,
8556 3072, victoryhotel.com.au. Open Thu-Sun, 5pm-7.30pm