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Tasting Australia festival top cooks reveal what they have learnt from the previous generation

THE families behind Lucia’s and Parwana – and the guests of the Tasting Australia festival – share the generations of cooking wisdom that’s been passed down to them.

Owner Somer Sivrioglu at Efendy Restaurant at Balmain.
Owner Somer Sivrioglu at Efendy Restaurant at Balmain.

“GENERATIONS” is one of the themes explored in this year’s Tasting Australia festival, which begins on Friday.

Simon Wilkinson asked local heroes and festival guests to reveal what they had learnt from their forebears.

 

 Rosella Family, Lucia’s

Lucia Rosella opened Adelaide’s first pizza bar in 1957 in the Central Market. Daughters Nicci and Maria continue the tradition, while a third generation of the family, including granddaughter Emma, have established their own food businesses.

Maria Rosella, Nicci Bugeja and Emma Phillips. The Rosella/Bugeja family behind Lucia’s. Picture: Matt Turner
Maria Rosella, Nicci Bugeja and Emma Phillips. The Rosella/Bugeja family behind Lucia’s. Picture: Matt Turner

EMMA PHILLIPS

Granddaughter

Every time I came in to Lucia’s I would eat spaghetti bolognese — breakfast, lunch, any meal it was always the same. We spent as much time here as we did at home.

I loved being in the kitchen. There was a little sink there with a wooden chair ... we’d play with the bubbles or with some pizza dough.

Mum and nanna were quite similar in their cooking. But what I learned from (aunt) Maria was quite different because she had spent time away and done cooking classes overseas. Mum and nanna were more about cooking for a family. And mum is the queen of roasts.

We always helped nanna make fresh pasta on a Saturday afternoon. The next day we would sit down as a family and eat it, trying to pick out which pieces we had rolled. As we got older, we started to understand the importance of cooking for the family, and then how it extends to neighbours and friends. Food was to share.
No one was ever not invited. There was always something to eat.

We made massive amounts of sauce every summer. And we used to help out every school holidays, cleaning the bottles and putting a basil leaf in them. Nanna used to make the best sauce.

NICCI BUGEJA

Daughter

The biggest lesson from mum was the generosity she showed everyone. If someone had a problem or wasn’t feeling well, she would help them, make something for them like chicken soup. It didn’t have to be on the menu.

Hospitality isn’t just about making food — it’s about making people feel special.

I’d love to be able to cook all the things she cooked as well as she did. She never made a meal that wasn’t amazing. It could be just vegetables — say spinach and potatoes — and the way she did it would be delicious. Her flavours were always spot-on.

And mum learnt from her mum. Nonna’s stuffed capsicums were the best. The food they all cooked was particular to their little village of Pago Veiano near Benevento. When we have gone to the village, the food there is exactly like mum’s. Then a few miles down the road, the food is still from the region but the flavours are different.

The other thing I remember is Strega liqueur. If there was anything wrong with you, she would give you Strega. She and dad had a glass every morning.

MARIA ROSELLA

Daughter

I’m still living in her home and maintaining her garden. I love it. It is so rewarding. And you can pick such fresh produce all the time. All the basil, oregano and other herbs for Lucia’s comes from the garden. And the olives.

Mum never taught us how to do it — we just saw her do it so often, while we were helping, that we picked it up. If there is one dish that reminds me of mum it is the fresh made fusilli pasta with ragu sauce. She would cut little strips of pasta and roll them by hand around a thin steel rod. It took more than three hours but it was dad’s favourite.

The sauce making went on for months, from early in November with the first tomatoes. Mum used a big copper (pot) over a wood fire. She taught (grandson) Simon to make the sauce. She said “you have to do it the way I have. You can’t cheat this”.

 

 

Ayubi family, Parwana

Farida and Zelmai Ayubi fled Afghanistan with their young family 30 years ago, before opening the much-loved and newly expanded Parwana in Torrensville.

Farida, left, with her daughter Fatema, right, and granddaughter Zainab at Parwana. Picture: Matt Turner
Farida, left, with her daughter Fatema, right, and granddaughter Zainab at Parwana. Picture: Matt Turner

FARIDA AYUBI

When you cook, you must think about the people who are going to eat it and that means doing everything right. Even the small things like the salt and the spices — everything must be perfect. When you are honest and cook with all of your heart, everything will be good.

One day of the week, on Monday, all the family tries to be together. Everybody brings something different to the table. My favourite things to cook for the family are a very simple dal with plain rice and a salad. And I love to make a dish of fried potato and okra. That is very special for us.

I am also learning from my daughter and my grandchild. It has been amazing because they are from a younger generation. They do some things differently and I love it when they bring something they have cooked to me.

FATEMA AYUBI

Daughter

Mum taught us to cook traditional Afghan food from a young age. We all had to take turns in learning. It was important for her to pass on the recipes that came to her from her own family.

She taught us the importance of generosity and cooking from the heart. We have always had people over and she always cooks the best of what she has for her friends and family. Sometimes I realise I sound exactly like Mum when I talk about being generous or being pedantic about ingredients or honouring traditions.

Mum was a teacher at my school in Kabul so we spent a lot of time together. Our life revolved around food ... we have specific foods that would only be cooked for one occasion so I would look forward to a particular dish because it was the only time of the year that I would get it.

Mum’s rice dishes are so good — I’ve never had ones like them. The spice mix she makes has a special fragrance that I always associate with Mum. The orange pilaw, particularly, takes a lot of skill. Whenever Mum goes to big gatherings and takes that dish, the other ladies flock around her and say ‘How do you do this?’” She has a special touch.

ZAINAB AYUBI

Granddaughter

I’m only 20 but I’ve been around food my entire life. Every special event or occasion revolves around food and its preparation. From the age of six, I went to my grandparents after school and my grandma would help me cook dinner for the family every night. It was the best part of my day. The first dish I remember her teaching me was a traditional okra dish and I will never forget that.

Cooking was a way to bond with my grandma and since then I have always loved being in the kitchen. It’s a stress release for me. My entire life revolves around it now.

Now Mum has been teaching me to cook the food for our business, particularly how to make it in bigger quantities. We work really well together as a team.

 

The guests of Tasting Australia 2018

Somer Sivrioglu

Efendy, Sydney

I’ve learnt a few cooking styles from my elders. My grandmother was highly influential for me and I picked up a lot from her Balkan cooking style. This style uses lots of fresh vegetables and herbs in meals and often involves one pot dishes such as stews. They take a sustainable approach to their cooking and use the whole animal or vegetable to reduce food waste. I continue these practices in my kitchens.

My advice

Don’t try and modernise your local cooking before learning the traditional cooking practices. It’s important to understand your heritage and its cooking traditions in order to advance them.

 

Mehmet Gürs

Mikla, Turkey

What have I learnt from my elders? To start with, respect for time. Don’t rush it. A stew takes time, a properly made bread takes time, to age a steak takes time, a fruit or vegetable requires time to taste anything. Also respect for the real heroes, the honest producers. It could be a small family barely making a living out of a few simple products, a larger cheesemaker or a young startup of a distillery or brewery. Without them we are nothing!

My advice

Get to know how it all really works. Farming, animal husbandry, cheesemaking, beekeeping etc … Try to get a deep understanding of the source to good food, the ingredient.

Mehmet Gürs of Mikla, Turkey.
Mehmet Gürs of Mikla, Turkey.

Monty Koludrovic

Icebergs Dining Room, Sydney

I have learnt so much from my elders when it comes to food. My Russian nonna was remarkable in the kitchen and showed so much generosity and ceremony around her cooking. There was a pride and understanding in her cooking which was impressive even when I was very young.

My advice

Listen, listen, listen … and be patient. You don’t need to follow all advice you hear or adopt all techniques you learn but take the time to listen and absorb. The skill of learning is the skill which will keep on giving throughout your whole life.

Icebergs chef Monty Koludrovic.
Icebergs chef Monty Koludrovic.

Aaron Turner

Igni, Geelong

I’ve learnt to be calm and to treat people with respect, we tend to get so worked up in kitchens and in restaurants often creating stressful environments. Be calm, be clear, be respectful and you will be a much better cook.

My advice

Be patient, take time to learn and see as much of the world as possible. Spend time in the right kitchens, the ones that resonate with you. Try not to be blindsided by the instafamous chefs and kitchens we see on social platforms, find substance and build your career on that.

Aaron Turner of Igni, Geelong. Picture: Mark Stewart
Aaron Turner of Igni, Geelong. Picture: Mark Stewart

Paul West

River Cottage Australia

I’ve learnt that sitting down with family and friends to a good meal, free from screens and distractions, is a powerful tool for happiness.

When I was growing up, the Sunday lamb roast was always the meal that brought the whole family together. Mum and Nan would prepare it and then at around 2 we’d stop whatever we were doing and eat together at a big table outside. Nan has since passed, so whenever I eat roast lamb, I’m reminded of her.

My advice

Cook! It’s a dying art, but one that is deeply satisfying and infinitely rewarding.

 

River Cottage chef, Paul West.
River Cottage chef, Paul West.

JP McMahon

Aniar, Ireland

What have I learnt from my elders? Everything! Discipline, determination, curiosity. Realising that trends come and go but at the root of good cooking is flavour and passion. Cooking has changed so much and at the same time it’s still ultimately about making people happy and creating an experience around food for people to enjoy.

My advice

Always go with gut. Trust your own judgments, while always being able to listen to others. Be passionate about what you do!

JP McMahon of Aniar, Ireland.
JP McMahon of Aniar, Ireland.

Matt Breen

Templo, Hobart

There are so many things I’ve learnt from my elders but a couple of the thing that come
to mind are to just keep things simple and support local growers. I like to think that we base our ethos off those two things at Templo and by doing that, we’ve been able to create a strong relationship between the small producers in the community and ourselves.

My advice

If I had to pass anything onto the next generation, it would be to always say ‘yes’. Rise up to any challenge that’s put in front of you and don’t be afraid of failing. Be the first to put your hand up for the jobs that no one would normally want to do. A positive attitude will take you far. Remember to learn the basics. Some of the most amazing dishes can be the simplest.

Matt Breen and Chris Chapple of Templo in Hobart.
Matt Breen and Chris Chapple of Templo in Hobart.

Dave Verheul

Embla, Melbourne

I think what I have learnt is the importance of sitting down and sharing a meal with those you most care about.

It almost seems like an antiquated notion in this day and age but I think taking time to eat together, the bond and the discussions created are hugely important.

I’m reminded of this
every time I eat my mother’s roast chicken, stuffed with lemon and garlic, every second Sunday.

My advice

Please turn your mobile phone off at the table.

 

A festival to suit all tastes

FREE EVENTS

Town Square

Victoria Square

The heart and soul of Tasting Australia in Victoria Square/Tarntanyangga is the place to explore, enjoy, gather and graze throughout the 10 days of the festival. Wood-fired pizza, charcoal chicken, bombe alaska and drinks for all the family are on offer, while live DJs will keep the atmosphere warm around the fire pits in the square. Free entry. April 13-22 from 11am

Artisan Produce Week on the Pontoon

The Pontoon, River Torrens

A free, floating hub celebrating artisan craft beer, wine, spirits and food. Local brewers, winemakers and producers will present Q & A sessions throughout the program. April 13-22 from noon

Rundle Mall
Urban Pantry

Gawler Place Canopy, Rundle Mall

Open daily, a pop-up urban pantry in the city centre to browse, taste free samples and purchase your favourite foods. Stock up your pantry with delicious delights and scope out gifts for friends. And look out for the Grazing Trail, a self-guided tour through the Mall. April 13-22

Taste Buds

Rundle Mall

A program for 7-12 year-olds designed to engage budding young chefs in food, nutrition, food provenance and food preparation. Develop young palates with this fun, hands-on and sensory approach to food. April 13-22 from 11am

From Page 32

Food For Thought

Mrs Harris’ Shop

Luscious fresh South Australian produce depicted in artworks to make your mouth water. The talented artists from Bittondi Printmakers will embrace the natural beauty of food, examine the environment it is sourced from or consider the issues of sustainability that run parallel to food production.

36 Jervois St, Torrensville. April 14, 15 & 21. 22, 11am

Feast on Yorkes

Barley Stacks Wines

Experience local food from the land and sea at Barley Stack’s barn-style cellar door and function centre. A family-friendly event with live music giving guests opportunities to mix and mingle while enjoying spit-roasted meats, fresh local seafood, local wines and craft beers. April 15, noon. South Kilkerran (south of Maitland).

Magic on

the Murray

Whistling Kite

Biodynamic Vineyard

Experience some of the Riverland’s most unique biodynamic wines from Whistling Kite Wines, with tasting platters of premium Riverland produce. Settle into the sounds of local musicians and spend the day taking in the vineyard and surroundings.

April 14, 11.30am Freundt Rd, New Residence, whistlingkitewines.com.au

FAMILY-FRIENDLY EVENTS

Westfield Food and Wine Weekend

Westfield Marion, Tea Tree Plaza and West Lakes

Tastings from South Australian wineries, brewers and distillers plus free hands-on masterclasses and demonstrations with food heroes and other live entertainment. Sprout Cooking will run cooking classes for children aged six to 12 for $10. April 21-22, 11am. Westfield Marion, Tea Tree Plaza and West Lakes

Foggy Pig

Longview Vineyard

Hills winery Longview and popular chef Salvatore Pepe celebrate the noble nebbiolo and the proud pig. Italy’s “King of Grapes” has been planted at Longview for more than 20 years. Enjoy these wines with a menu centred around pork. April 15, noon. $70 adults, $15 children

A Taste of Beerenberg

Beerenberg Farm

Go behind the scenes with the sixth-generation owner/operators of Beerenberg Farm, the Paech family. Hosted in a private area of the farm, you’ll hear from the family about the growth of the farm. Roam the strawberry fields to pick your own bounty. April 14, 15, 21, 22, 11am, $65

Fleurieu Olive Harvest Open Day

Nangkita Olives

Learn to plant, prune, pick, pickle and press olives with Nangkita Olives. Enjoy wood-fired pizza and wine and sample different olive oils. Hay rides for the kids. April 22, 10am. Free entry, lunch $45 adults, $20 kids. Bull Creek Rd, Tooperang; nangkita.com.au

 

EVENTS UNDER $100

Quattro Formaggio

Sunny’s Pizza, Adelaide

Join the off-duty Tasting Australia chefs for a night of unscripted, unpredictable
and fun pizza-throwing at Sunny’s. Adelaide’s uber cool pizza bar will flip into a pedestrian pizza party with chefs Somer Sivrioglu (Efendy, Sydney), Benjamin Cooper (Chin Chin, Melbourne and Sydney), Aaron Turner (Igni, Geelong) and Jock Zonfrillo (Restaurant Orana, Adelaide). April 16, from $20. No bookings.

Behind the Scenes Farmers’ Market Breakfast and Tour

Adelaide Farmers’ Market, Wayville

Join chef and Adelaide Farmers’ Market Kitchen co-ordinator Sherine Badawy along with Food Tours Australia’s Mark Gleeson for a behind-the-scenes gourmet breakfast at South Australia’s largest farmers’ market. Watch the hustle and bustle of market set up while your breakfast is being cooked, and meet the farmers and food producers over coffee.

April 15, 8am-9.45am, $75

Pontoon Long Table Dinner

The Pontoon, River Torrens

Long table dinner of seasonal produce from small, local growers cooked by Tasmania’s Iain Todd and Adelaide’s Grant Schooling, matched with Murdoch Wines, all in a picturesque, river setting. April 14, 7pm-10pm, $65

Flavours of Campbelltown

Town Square, Victoria Square

Guided tour showcasing some of Campbelltown’s best local businesses. Think coffee, cake and pizza, followed by a pasta class and completed with taralli biscuits and gelato. April 17, 10am-4.30pm, $63. Meet at Town Square.

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Original URL: https://www.adelaidenow.com.au/delicious-sa/tasting-australia-festival-top-cooks-reveal-what-they-have-learnt-from-the-previous-generation/news-story/ccde86478268673b184117ee9473a4eb