SA’s fine diners: what’s open, what’s closed, and what’s changed.

As the future of Jock Zonfrillo’s Restaurant Orana remains in doubt, we take a look at the rest of state of South Australia’s fine dining scene to see who is still holding on.

Tom Tilbury, head chef of Gather at Coriole in McLaren Vale. Picture: Dean Martin

• MasterChef Jock Zonfrillo’s business failure
• Overhaul at d’Arenberg Cube

Orana is on ice, the d’Arenberg Cube has shifted and Hentley Farm’s theatrical degustation has been put on the back burner in favour of a $35 feed.

South Australia’s fine dining restaurants are adapting to life post-COVID-19 – for some, it means the death of the 14-20 course degustation, while for others, pulling back its a la carte menu and introducing a set, 4-7 course meal is the best way to maximise limited sittings.

But questions remain over one of the state’s most famous dining establishments.

Four months after closing his restaurant in the thick of the pandemic, Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana remains closed, with the MasterChef judge stating his team is still “working through the options”. In a statement to The Advertiser this week, the chef said:

“Orana is a small restaurant physically and while there are square metreage restrictions in place it’s not feasible for us to open and run a successful business. We are, like every other restaurant in the country, hoping that we can open to diners again as soon as possible.”

d’Arenberg Cube also closed its cutting edge restaurant in March. In its place, on level 3 of the Cube, d’Arenberg have introduced Eat@Polly’s – a casual menu for walk-ins only, with nothing over $18.

Christopher Horner, director of Blanco Horner Hospitality, which owns Botanic Gardens Restaurant, said there is still strong demand for special occasion fare.

“We opened as soon as we could and we were booked out within hours,” said Mr Horner. The restaurant is back to offering a five or seven-course degustation on weekends.

“It’s the lunchtime corporates and tourists market that’s not fully supported now,” he said.

Here’s the state of play:

CLOSED INDEFINITELY

ORANA

Jock Zonfrillo in the kitchen at Orana. Picture: Mike Burton

1/285 Rundle St, city

Orana announced its closure on March 21. In a statement on Wednesday, chef Jock Zonfrillo said they were still working through options for reopening, but would not confirm if this would be in Adelaide. “While there are square metreage restrictions in place it’s not feasible for us to open and run a successful business,” he said.

CUBE RESTAURANT

Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale, 8329 4888

d’Arenberg winery closed its headline-making restaurant just before the government’s imposed closure of all diners. Head chefs Brendan Wessels and Lindsay Durr were forced to move on. However, in its place the winery has implemented a casual menu (see ‘Adapted’).

BACK TO NORMAL (mostly)

BOTANIC GARDENS RESTAURANT

Plane Tree Dr, city, 8223 3526

The latest easing of restrictions means the award-winning restaurant is nearly at usual capacity – 60 instead of 70, and while the days of service have reduced (Fri-Sun), sittings have been fully booked. It offers a five and seven-course degustation.

HARDY’S VERANDAH RESTAURANT

1 Mawson Dr, Crafers, 8339 6777

HVR stepped up its game during the pandemic and was the only venue in the state delivering fine dining meals to rooms for those staying on site. The restaurant is now back open for lunch and dinner daily (lunch only on a Sunday).

ADAPTED

HENTLEY FARM, BAROSSA VALLEY

Cnr Gerald Roberts Rd and Jenke Rd, Seppeltsfield, 8562 8427

Instead of the usual degustation, the kitchen team is offering a “lighter food offering”, which is available with wine tasting flights from Friday-Sunday. It costs $35pp. While the full restaurant experience is expected to return “in a couple of months time”, the team also plans on continuing the new, casual food menu as an alternative.

D’ARENBERG CUBE

Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale, 8329 4888

South Australia’s most expensive meal – a $220 degustation (not including wine) has been bumped for a casual a la carte menu with nothing over $18. Level 3 of the Cube, once home to the cutting edge Cube Restaurant, is now closed, and in its place is Eat@Polly’s, serving up dishes such as soup, sandwiches, cake and coffee. No reservations are required.

Chief winemaker Chester Osborn at d'Arenberg Cube. Picture: Tom Huntley

GATHER AT CORIOLE

Chaffeys Rd, McLaren Vale, 8323 8305

South Australia’s top delicious.100 restaurant has only dropped one day of trade, with lunch now available Thursday-Sunday, and has pulled back its a la carte offering in favour of a set five or seven courses prepared by chef Tom Tilbury and his team.

MAXWELL

19 Olivers Rd, McLaren Vale, 8323 8200

Upon reopening, the kitchen experimented with offering two, two-hour sittings of four courses, but from this weekend the restaurant will return to a more relaxed six-course lunch called The South Australia Showcase Menu. It’s currently available just on weekends, with owners “keeping a close eye” on when they can increase sittings. The winery cellar door has suspended its casual food offerings.

PENFOLDS MAGILL ESTATE RESTAURANT

78 Penfold Rd, Magill, 8301 5569

The long established fine dining restaurant has slowly increased its offering over the past four weeks. It’s now open Wednesday-Sunday with the choice of a three-course meal, or more traditional, three-hour seven-course menu (Sunday is seven-course only).

WINDY POINT RESTAURANT

Belair Rd, Belair, 8278 8255

The Windy Point Lookout restaurant is reopening on July 17 with a new $75 set menu. Owners recently rebranded its adjacent Windy Point Cafe as Bird Box, offering relaxed pizza and tapas.

Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant.