Review: Sparkke at the Whitmore

Adelaide sweetheart chef Emma McCaskill delivers evidence of good food ethics, her Indian heritage, and a nod to this historic Whitmore Hotel.

Potto and mustard seed samosa with coriander chutney at Sparkke at the Whitmore. Picture: Dianne Mattsson

In this super-cool Sparkke at the Whitmore nanobrewery/diner, the feel is edgy, industrial sharp and... somehow feminine.

Look up to all that guff in the roof space exposed, look to the back and see the working brewery centrepiece, look around and it’s all softened by pops of pinky salmon, blond timbers, shabby-chic white bentwood chairs and hits of brightness in oversized summery wall art. Spaces are varied, including an upstairs open-air lounge. And the breeze flows through, so expect a natural feel, on a hot night or day.

Heirloom tomatoes, whipped tofu, in pani puri crisp at Sparkke at the Whitmore. Picture: Dianne Mattsson

The decor speaks of a brewery/restaurant founded and led by women, with a wild-ride mix of changing boutique beers, cider and hard lemonade, on tap, and by the can with catchy socially conscious slogans backed by community campaigns.

They have labels such as “Girls Just Wanna Have Funding”, “R-E-S-P-E-C-T”, “Climate Change is a Burning Issue”, and, “The Last Straw” pale ale, even a “Great Dames” gin.

Rest assured the flavours pull in the guys as well.

Adelaide sweetheart chef Emma McCaskill delivers evidence of good food ethics, her Indian heritage, and a nod to this historic Whitmore Hotel.

Expect some spice, mod-to-earthy share food, and resistance to traditional pub grub. No schnitties here. There’s beef striploin and pork shoulder on a menu dominated by vegan, vego, gluten-, nut- and dairy-free options.

Crispy eggplant, chilli and coriander. Picture: Dianne Mattsson

For a light lunch, we start with incredibly delicate crispy open-top pani puri spheres, an Indian street food, today carrying the surprise of whipped tofu under perfect heirloom tomatoes. Fresh samosas are filled with mustard-tinted potato alongside fried curry leaves and a coriander chutney that would sing with an extra touch of seasoning. Flaky roti is a little course on its own, accompanied by a delicious silky dahl butter.

Then, satisfying fried eggplant batons are absolutely upstaged by a zingy salad starring chilli, coriander, and crunchy shallots. And pickled kohlrabi and rocket doused in beautiful nori butter effectively outshine their hero Coorong mullet. Monte Carlo s’mores are nice, or to refresh, ginger beer, and a cider, please.