Restaurant review: Louca’s Seafood & Grill takes simple, Greek approach to cooking seafood

A third-generation family restaurant takes a simple, Greek approach to cooking seafood and solves one of the city’s great conundrums.

Flounder at Louca's Seafood & Grill.

As this week’s review happens to fall on Australia Day, it would have been unpatriotic not to find a dining experience that somehow waved the flag.

That, of course, could mean many things – a celebration of the nation’s rich mix of cultures, perhaps, or the bounty that is harvested across this great southern land, whether raised by farmers or part of the natural scheme of things.

Lamb, kangaroo and pavlova all have claims as culinary icons, depending on your point of view. Far more appealing, however, in the midst of a summer heatwave, is the thought of throwing a few prawns on the barbie, followed by squid, octopus and a fish. And the best place to do this, in the city at least, is Louca’s in Pulteney St.

This column has previously lamented the gulf (pun intended) between the quality of seafood caught in local waters and how this is presented by restaurants that specialise in the game. SeaSalt at Henley Beach is one exception. And, based on this most recent visit, Louca’s is also worth recommending when the inevitable reader question comes: “Where can I take Aunt Thelma for a nice seafood meal.”

Flathead at Louca's Seafood & Grill.

Don’t go looking for anything too creative or flash. Third generation restaurateur Peter Louca, who runs this place with other family, has his kitchen team sticking closely to the tenets of Greek cooking with which he was brought up. That means keeping it simple.

Most of the fish and other seafood is paired with a lemon wedge and leaves to garnish. Serving grilled octopus on taramasalata is about as edgy as it gets. However, when everything (particularly the fish) is handled with tremendous skill, it doesn’t matter.

It’s just over a year since Louca’s shifted from its original Hutt St home to take over the prominent corner site of what had been Alphutte. While the timber-lined vaulted ceiling remains, the ski-chalet decor has been stripped away to create a contemporary, light-filled taverna, that steers clear of any excess Greek or seafaring paraphernalia.

Two long tables are sealed in a glass box in the middle of the room, which looks like it belongs in a supermax prison, but I guess is a practical way to host large groups. Otherwise tables are adequately spaced, seating a choice of banquette or comfortably curved and padded chair, the open kitchen large and seemingly well equipped.

Grilled octopus at Louca's Seafood

While chicken, pork, lamb and steak get a single mention on the Louca’s menu, coming here as a red meat eater would be akin to an opera lover going to see the Hilltop Hoods.

And despite the choices covering several pages and becoming slightly convoluted, in essence the offer is a selection of fish, plus prawns, squid, octopus and scallops, available battered, grilled or crumbed, in a variety of sizes and combinations.

The meze provides a taste of what is to come. A skewer of local king prawns, despite being stripped of their shells other than the final tail segment, have the bounce and god-given sweetness of the best specimens. Local calamari is presented as meaty strips of tube and a clump of tentacles with charred tips that are worth fighting over. The same goes for segments of octopus tentacle that look like a piece of experimental art with their suction caps upturned and laid on a pale pink swoosh of taramasalata.

Flathead fillets, split at the bottom like a pair of legs, seem pan-fried rather than grilled, but the cooking, once again, is on point, with just a shimmer of translucence at the middle. And a whole plate-sized flounder, finished with brown butter, capers and crisp sage leaves, peels easily from its one-dimensional skeleton to provide plenty of firm, waxy textured white flesh.

A bowl of Greek salad doesn’t muck around – tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives and plenty of dried oregano. Perfect.

The Louca’s heritage also shines through among the desserts. “Loula’s kataifi” is a block of shredded filo topped with a cloud of impossibly light custard, cream and a grating of nutmeg. We almost ordered a second.

The best South Aussie seafood at a Greek restaurant in the heart of Adelaide. You beauty.

Peter Louca and son Dylan with some local seafood at Louca's Restaurant & Grill in Pulteney Street.

Simon says:

Louca’s Seafood & Grill

242 Pulteney St, Adelaide

8232 6792; loucasseafoodrestaurant.com.au

Score 14/20

OWNER Peter Louca CHEF Peter Westfield
FOOD Seafood MEZES $9-$21 MAIN $29-$48 DESSERT $4-$16 DRINKS Like the seafood, a heavy focus on local producers, with a good choice of fish-friendly whites. BYO $18

Open for

LUNCH Mon-Fri

DINNER Mon-Sat

Reviews in SAWeekend are judged out of 20. Points are allocated for food, service, drinks and “X factor”. As a guide, total scores indicate: 1-9 Fail; 10-11 Passable; 11-12 Satisfactory; 13-14 Recommended; 15-16 Very good; 17-18 Outstanding; 19-20 World class.