Old world and new entwine at The Lane Vineyard
A Hills cellar door draws on European influences, but is most concerned with what is happening in its own backyard, writes Simon Wilkinson.
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Hans Heysen spent a lifetime painting the gum trees of the Adelaide Hills, capturing their awesome scale, the shimmering light of their bark, the shadows they throw at different stages of the day.
Looking out from the dining room of The Lane, just a few ripples in the landscape from the studio where Heysen once worked, it is easy to see why.
One magnificent eucalypt dominates the view towards the dam. Further down the slope, there is another. To the left, across the rows of vines, are many more in a tract of untouched bush. The gums, however, now have company. A row of pencil pines stand tall and straight on the other side of a new courtyard: a little piece of Tuscany in our own wine-loving hills.
The European and the Australian, side by side. Old world and new. Informed by tradition but responding most to its surrounds. That pretty much sums up what The Lane is about.
If you haven’t made the short drive from Hahndorf out to this most picturesque of cellar doors recently, now is a good time to get reacquainted. As well as the early spring sunshine (hopefully), a major renovation has upgraded the dining experience considerably. The tastings that used to be in the restaurant and could be a distraction when it was busy, now have a dedicated room around the corner.
Car parking has moved as well, out past the production facility at the back, so the panorama out to the Mount Lofty Ranges is no longer compromised.
Alongside these structural changes, long-standing chef James Brinklow’s food is looking better than ever, leaning more to beautifully honed Europe and Mediterranean flavours on this visit, rather than the more aggro Asian combinations I remember from before. Perhaps the season is a factor here, but it certainly does more favours to the wine.
Having said that, a single Gazander oyster is dressed with a little squirt of ponzu and ginger, just enough to mingle with the briny juices it has carried all the way from Coffin Bay.
Still among the snacks, James’s sourdough crumpets are the stuff of breakfast dreams, crisp at the base and pock-marked with holes to soak up butter or honey. This time, instead, they are served with quality Spanish anchovies to drape across the top, along with a sprinkle of cured egg yolk and lemon zest.
“Charred ox tongue” is delivered in unexpected form, the offal brined and gently steamed before being cut into thin slices, folded and pushed on to a skewer like a ’70s canape. This is then cooked over charcoal yakitori-style while being brushed with a sesame and soy baste. With transparent shavings of pickled kohlrabi and apple draped over the top, it is a textural playground.
Ravioli filled with house-made ricotta, caramelised onion and herbs offers more straightforward pleasure, with a drizzle of brown butter and a few braised radicchio leaves to balance all that dairy richness and leave a lovely bitter background note.
A grilled swordfish steak is magnificent eating, sweet, dense and meaty, with a hint of char, all enhanced by a chunky blood orange and herb salsa. Classic Mediterranean, you’d think, until the addition of a smear of bright magenta beetroot puree takes it somewhere else again. It works equally well with or without the final touch. Clever stuff.
Roasted duck breast also hits the mark with a carrot and orange puree, red wine and star anise reduction, braised endive and a final sprinkle of 100pc cocoa powder. A bitter/sweet symphony, for sure.
These dishes all lead, inevitably, to a discussion about wine, which I’m sure isn’t coincidental. The cool-climate styles made by The Lane fit the bill here but there are also a handful of imported French counterparts to taste alongside them and compare.
The Euro tour continues in the Alps, at “Mont Blanc”, a dessert named for the peak of chestnut and rum cream piping that tops a layer of chestnut butter and, below that, a base of almond cake. The very last of the season’s quinces, poached slowly to deep magenta, are an effective foil.
More positive changes are on the way at The Lane. A significant vegie patch has been established on the property, along with a chicken run and hive. This produce will help sustain a second tasting menu that will use only locally sourced ingredients. Hans Heysen, a Hills resident for most of his life, would surely approve.
THE LANE VINEYARD
5 Ravenswood Lane, Hahndorf, 8388 1250, thelane.com.au
OWNER The Lane
CHEF James Brinklow
FOOD Contemporary
TWO COURSES $65 THREE COURSES $75 FOUR COURSES $85
DRINKS Full Lane range, including some older vintages, with a handful of complementary French labels
OPEN LUNCH Wed-Mon
SCORE 16/20
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