Restaurant review: McLaren Vale Hotel turning carp into delectable delights thanks to star chef Simon Burr
Carp, a scourge of our rivers, are being turned into a crowd-pleasing snack at a revamped regional hotel, writes Simon Wilkinson.
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So what should be done about the zillions of carp that have taken over the country’s rivers and threaten to bully our native species out of existence? Stage a massive competition for anglers? Introduce a disease? Turn them into fertiliser? Or find a way to make them palatable at a time when other types of fish are declining in numbers or becoming too expensive for many people to afford?
Chef Simon Burr is taking down this aquatic pest one spring roll at a time. His offering at the McLaren Vale Hotel is sliced down the guts to show off a jumbled filling of minced carp from Lake Albert, shredded veg, rice noodles and herbs. Add a smear of XO mayonnaise and the roll rocks.
The McLaren Vale Hotel? Yes, that one … the sprawling main street pub and drive-through bottle shop that, until recently, was most commonly visited for a thirst quencher between cellar doors, and usually accompanied by a discussion about the wasted potential of the place.
That potential finally looks set to be realised following its acquisition last year by the Palmer Hospitality Group, which has thrown huge sums into transforming suburban pubs such as The Highway and Warradale, as well as 2KW.
Major building works are still in planning here but, given the group’s past ventures, big changes can be expected. For now, the carpets have been replaced, the historic bluestone facade tidied up and the kitchen modernised. More important, for the purposes of this column at least, is the hiring of a chef who is familiar with this part of the world and what makes it tick.
Most recently, Burr hit the sweet-spot of regionally focused dining with broad appeal at Strathalbyn’s little charmer, The Olfactory Inn. It’s a formula he is now integrating into a wider menu designed to work across the pub’s various zones.
The main dining space, known as Bellevue, looks over the backyard of Hardy’s Tintara winery, including an awesome Moreton Bay fig. A wall of windows makes the most of the setting but the best seats on even a half-decent day are out on a narrow veranda that no doubt will be slated for expansion in any rebuild.
Some investment will also be needed in the staff. A few senior people are away when we visit and it shows. The enthusiasm that goes into constantly checking that everything is OK would be better channelled into practical matters like removing dirty plates before the next course arrives.
Those behind the bar also need to embrace a strong drinks list. If different tonics are offered for a G&T, don’t give the stink eye when it’s pointed out that the wrong one has been delivered. And pouring glasses of dessert wine so full that they need to be carried like a tray of nitroglycerine does no one any favours.
Still, the effort that’s gone into the cooking makes up for most of these flaws. Even a simple starter of Goolwa pipi croquettes are based on potatoes that have been boiled in a reduction of the shellfish juices for an extra layer of flavour.
Tacos are built around a chunky battered fillet of mulloway (pilfered from the fish and chip supply?), blobs of guacamole and a salsa of tomato, onion and charred corn kernels combined with an equal proportion of mixed herbs.
Sweet and sour pork hock is a beast of a thing, the meat braised, shredded, pressed and then fried to form a block the size of a Rubik’s Cube. Doused in a big gloop of addictive caramel/vinegar sauce and countered by the fresh zing of a shredded salad, it keeps enticing you to go further – but, like climbing Everest, finishing can be detrimental to your health.
Seared kangaroo fillet goes on an international romp with faithful partner beetroot, here turned into a Sri Lankan curry with a deceptive lingering heat that takes over from the lovely aromatics provided by pandan and curry leaves.
If that pair sounds too challenging, mains also include a pasta (with pipis, chilli and tomato) and steak options, as well as a separate list of burgers, schnitzels and the like.
Desserts such as a Kahlua cheesecake, chocolate panna cotta and Eton mess will also have a fan base but for mine lack the balance shown elsewhere. They are all a bit rich and dairy heavy to sit comfortably at this end of the afternoon.
Which goes to show that trying to keep everyone happy is a mug’s game. The McLaren Vale Hotel will give it a good crack, I’m sure. So no carping, please.
McLAREN VALE HOTEL
(BELLEVUE DINING)
208 Main Rd, McLaren Vale
8323 8208; mclarenvalehotel.com.au
OWNER Palmer Hospitality Group
CHEF Simon Burr
FOOD Contemporary
SMALL $8-$19 MAIN $20-$48
DESSERT $10-$12
DRINKS Strong regional showing in a list that is good value for money, with plenty for under $50.
OPEN LUNCH and DINNER Daily
SCORE: 13.5/20