Kuti Shack ... it’s kinda perfect
A changed feast at Goolwa beach is still about great fish, plus delicate pink to purple-shelled pipis, some in dishes surprisingly re-imagined.
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A changed feast at Goolwa beach is still about great fish, plus delicate pink to purple-
shelled pipis, some in dishes surprisingly re-imagined.
Kuti Shack, hailed as a pop-up, replaces the popular Bombora, which has switched back to its old riverside digs on Barrage Rd.
The cool Shack is an offshoot of the successful Goolwa Pipi Co. Don’t dally, because its lifespan is reportedly about 12 months, when the prime kiosk cafe site is expected to fall to growing re-development of the beachfront and car park. It’s a pumping, licensed, no-frills location with sand on its doorstep, crashing waves just steps away, good food and a breezy feel.
Front of house, we spy fish magician and original cafe-site founder Olaf Hansen. He insists his role is in helping Pipi Co friends behind the new Shack, not cheffing, not owning, just lending a hand.
When he’s on board, the casual service is smooth. Other times, it can be patchy.
The menu retains Olaf’s trademark surfie/chalkboard specials focusing on the best of nearby hauls, nowadays prepped and presented by a star kitchen cast of Billy Dohnt (formerly d’Arry’s and Salopian Inn), Brendon Roach (Press and Oggi) and Vanessa Button (former co-owner of Bombora). We sample a few new items, but also know the stayers such as bouillabaisse and ale-battered fish’n’chips are truly good.
Pipis appear in varied forms. Today, a revelation. Who knew they would be so good sashimi style? We share some natural, some doused with bloody mary sorbet. They seem pricey at $16 for six, but wow. No shrinkage here. They’re juicy, seaside zingy and so plump that they loll to the edges of their shells, the flesh loose and delicious.
In another newby dish, Coorong mulloway wings and bits are fried, crispy, gnarly pieces of fish flesh barely clutching spiky fins. On the side, a light bright green pawpaw and pickles salad.
Kuti Shack ticks on all day, breakfast is still big, and there’s an ice-cream/snacks van outside.
This food-match with thumping sea views … it’s kinda perfect.